Serene green

Yesterday I woke up with the images of the green trees filling my mind, so I decided to return to the forest path behind San Miniato. It was another sunny day, perhaps the last warm, clear day that we'll have for awhile, and I wanted to see more of my new safe haven.

I often feel a longing to be alone in nature, something that was initiated back in 1994, when I traveled to Ireland. While I was there, I became enchanted by a certain tree and spent a week in Killarney National Park. It was the first time I experienced nature as a sacred space. There was a cathedral near that park, but I felt more at home in the park than I did in the church, and it seemed they both radiated a similar energy that one might refer to as " sacred space." Since that time, I've often felt the need to be alone in nature.

My initial trip to Italy in 2006 was planned around locations where I would be able to experience nature: Le Cinque Terre, Lucca and San Gimignano, in particular. In le Cinque Terre, I hiked alone along the Ligurian Coast; in Lucca, I spent time with the trees and the botanical garden; in San Gimignano, I discovered a path outside the city wall that offered stunning views of the countryside, and spent much of my time there, alone with the trees.

Even though I now have many Italian friends in various parts of Italy, and a more active social life while I'm here, at times I still have a longing to be alone in nature. This longing has been partially satisfied by visits to Lucca, Cortona, Segonzano and other places I've gone this year. But finding a sacred space in Firenze has been difficult, and I've gone north, south, east and west around the city looking for one!

I enjoy the park in Piazza D'Azeglio, but it's not really a sacred space. Nor is Parco delle Cascine: though grand and large, it doesn't fit the bill. Il Giardino di Boboli is vast and lovely, but again, not a sacred space. (Besides, there's a charge for entry and it's only open certain hours.) And though I enjoyed the formal gardens at the villas last week, they didn't do the trick for me. But the forest path behind San Miniato is "just right." I can get there within 10 minutes by bus, riding uphill along the lovely tree-lined Viale Michelangelo. The area seems to have few visitors, and once I cross the threshold into the forest, the city noises recede and I'm in paradise. Only the sounds of nature permeate this wooded area, and yesterday I heard many happy birds in the marine pines on the hills below.

I walked along the path, back and forth, and lingered in the sun to view the valley below. Encantevole! (enchanting)

San Miniato al Monte

San Miniato al Monte

After many cool and rainy days, today we were blessed with sunny skies and 70 degree (22C) weather. I decided to head to the hills again to make the most of a beautiful day. I'm getting to know the bus system, and always make sure to carry several bus tickets on me, just in case. Today I decided to visit San Miniato, the church on the hill above Piazzale Michelangelo. I'd seen it once before, in 2006, but hadn't made my way back there since. The other day I rode the bus to the Piazzale and enjoyed the tree-lined winding street along the bus route. The fall colors were dazzling, and the image of the trees has been "calling" me all week to return and explore the area more.

I walked up to Piazza Beccaria and took the Number 13 bus to the Piazzale, enjoying the view along way, an easy 10-minute ride. Not sure where the stop for San Miniato was, I went further than the Piazzale bus stop, then walked back along the tree-lined path until I saw the sign for the church. There were two paths ahead of me: a paved street or old stone steps leading up to a forest. Beckoned by the green vision ahead of me, I chose the old stone steps, and climbed my way up to a dense wooded area. I couldn't see San Miniato, but I was entranced by the trees, so continued walking through the forest.


To my right, I could see olive trees down the hill, and I could hear birds singing. I'd found a quiet space to enjoy the day, away from the city. There were a few people along the forest path: a woman doing yoga asanas, a man walking his dog, another man by himself. But we all seemed reverent, as if we were in a sacred space, with tall fir trees offering a serene presence.

The forest wound around a medieval wall that surrounds San Miniato and il Cimitero delle Porte Sante, a large cemetery. A steep staircase leads up the hill to the church, which has a commanding presence, with its Byzantine facade.



After the serene beauty of the forest, the church seemed dark and cold, so I didn't spend much time inside. But I hope to return some week for Sunday Mass that is accompanied by Gregorian chant.

Inside San Miniato

The view of the city from this height was spectacular.


Now that I know the way, I feel certain I'll return to this quiet green space again and again, away from the crowds and the city, where I feel restored by the serenity of the wise old trees.