Trieste

September 24, 2019

Arriving in Trieste, I was immediately struck by the contrast with Grado, as Trieste is a large city, and the train station itself is immense. After a quiet repose in Grado, I was suddenly faced with crowds of people and traffic everywhere. Trieste is located in the region of Friuli Venezia Giulia, in the northeast corner of Italy. After arriving at the train station, I bought a map to locate the B&B I had booked, and determined which bus to take across town. 

A view of the city from above

I was met at the B&B by the owners's boyfriend. It was a spacious flat in a large condominio (apartment building), decorated with old-fashioned furniture, as it had once been the home of the woman's grandfather. My room, however, was quite modern and comfortable, with large windows at one end, and I had access to the living room, kitchen and bathroom. I was the only guest, and the flat was quiet during my stay, except for occasional, very pleasant whistling when the boyfriend was in the flat. 

Part of Piazza Unita d'Italia, cordoned off in preparation for an event.

The architecture in Trieste is magnificent, ornate with decorations and huge in stature. Mostly built by the Austrian Hapsburgs, it's a contrast to the usual architectural styles found in Italy. Trieste is a port city and occupies a thin strip of land between the Adriatic coast and the Slovenian border.

The Civic Theater Museum, which documents the life of theater and music in Trieste from the 18th century to the present day. 

During my stay, I delved into several books at the B&B that detailed Trieste's history during and after WWII. Trieste was part of the Austrian empire from 1382 until 1918, and was annexed by Italy after WWI. Mostly Slovenes living there at the time, which created conflict with Italians, resulting in deportation and cruelty against Slovenes. This in turn led to the rise of  the Fascist government in the 1920s. After WWII, Trieste was ruled by Germany, then Yugoslavia (for 40 days), then a shared control by the Allied Military Government (Zone A) and Yugoslavia (Zone B), from 1947-54. In 1954 Zone A joined Italy and Zone B became part of Yugoslavia, being divided between Slovenia and Croatia. In 1975 a final border was settled, which constitutes the border that still exists today between Italy and Slovenia. 

Neptune statue and fountain in Piazza della Borsa

My first excursion in Trieste was to visit the Cathedral of San Giusto, high on a hill above the old city, which was filled with lovely mosaics. 

It was a steep climb up!

Mosaics decorating the Cathedral

From there, I walked across the city to the famous Piazza Unita d'Italia, which faces the Adriatic Sea. It is the largest seafront square in Europe, nearly 14,500 square meters in size. Unfortunately, entry was blocked off and the area was filled with tents and platforms in preparation for some event.

Next I went to the Grand Canal, a large canal in the heart of the city where you can see a statue of James Joyce on the Ponte Rosso bridge. Joyce lived in Trieste from 1904-20 and wrote his epic novel, Ulysses while there. 

Continuing on my journey, I visited the Serbian Orthodox church to view the incredible mosaics that adorn the interior. The Greek Orthodox Church of San Niccolo dei Grecci was another impressive stop along the way.

Church of San Niccolo dei Grecci 

Other areas of interest in Trieste are Arco Riccardo, a Roman gate from 33. A.D., 

and a Roman theater from the 2nd half of the 1st century.

Arco Riccardo

Roman theater

Piazza della Borsa (Stock Exchange Square) is another impressive sight. The original Palazzo, from 1806, is dwarfed by the newer and larger structure, while a fountain with a statue of Neptune graces the midst of the piazza. This piazza was the economic center of Trieste throughout the 19th century, and is still an important piazza in the city. 

Piazza della Borsa

A favorite spot during my stay was at Piazza Hortis, in the heart of the the historic city center. I bought pastries and hot chocolate at two of the lovely shops along the street, then hung out in the nearby Giardino Hortis.

 

Giardino Hortis

Though my stay in Trieste was only 2 days, I'm glad I made the effort to visit this unique, elegant city, so different from any other I've seen in Italy. I'd love to return for a longer stay.