Malcesine, Limone, Lago di Garda

 September 28, 2019

After visiting Lucia in Trento, I headed out by bus to the small village of Malcesine, on the eastern coast of Lago di Garda.  I had to change buses in Riva del Garda, and had the chance to walk around for a bit before heading on to Malcesine. Since I'd enjoyed such a wonderful time in Stresa, on Lago Maggiore a month earlier, I was eager to see if I might have a similar experience in Malcesine.

When I arrived at the bus stop, the proprietor of the B&B met me and carried my luggage to the apartment I had booked, in the town center. It turned out to be a huge place, with a complete kitchen, and the bedroom, dining room, living room and bathroom were all quite spacious. Compared to the studio apartment I was staying at in Bologna, it felt like a 4 star accommodation!

 

Malcesine in a popular tourist spot, especially with Germans and Austrians. The streets are filled with boutiques, gelaterias and restaurants that cater to tourists. The main attractions are the Castle, the Funivia (cable car lift) to Mount Baldo, and visiting the village of Limone across the lake via ferry. I found this village to be a lovely spot for a short stay, though it is quite touristy. I spent most of my time in quiet spots near the lake or on Mount Baldo. 

I walked by the castle, but didn't go in, as I'd already visited several other castles during my travels this year in Italy. I scoped out the town, checking out ferry schedules. then stopped to eat ravioli di zucca (pumpkin) with a glass of Prosecco for dinner. Later, after buying food for the apartment,  I found a bench by the lake and settled in to watch the sunset, while swans and ducks frolicked in the water below me.

The next day, I took the funivia to Mount Baldo and watched numerous paragliders, as it's a choice spot for that activity. I hiked around for an hour viewing the lake below, then returned to town when clouds started rolling in, obscuring the view. 

After a quick change of clothes at the apartment, I caught the ferry across the lake to Limone sul Garda, which was crowded with tourists. The town is famous for its Castel del Limonaia, where they grow all kinds of citrus, but especially lemons. 

Approaching Limone on the ferry.

Goethe wrote about his visit there in September of 1786, when the Limonaia was new. After falling into disrepair, in 1995 the local council bought the Limonaia to promote the city's heritage, restoring it with 100 new citrus plants and creating a museum with artifacts and explanations of it history. Though I enjoyed the ferry ride and seeing the limonaia, the town was packed with tourists, making it difficult to maneuver the narrow streets. 

A view from Limone of Lago di Garda.

These photos show the structures built around the plants, which  can be covered to allow the limonaia to be enclosed during the winter months. 

The ferry ride back across the the lake was a highlight of the day, as I always love being on the water. I had dinner with a view of the lake: grilled gamberoni (large shrimp) and vegetables, then watched another lovely sunset over the lake. 

The next day I caught a bus to Verona, then a train back to Bologna and my apartment there. 

Klimt's view of Malcesine

When I got home to the States a month later, I came across a painting by Gustav Klimt, entitled "Malcesine on Lake Garda". Oddly, the original had been destroyed by fire, but copies still exist. The view he painted was nearly the same as the one I saw from the ferry, approaching Malcesine from Limone. It was eerie to realize that I had viewed the same scene he had. I was so taken with the image, I bought a copy of it and can enjoy that view every day in my home.