Alassio, Italy: Is Italian Beach Life in Jeopardy?

The sandy beach in Alassio

Alassio is a small town of 10,000 on the Italian Riviera, in the region of Liguria, and is known for its shallow, endless beaches. And here,the beach is composed of fine sand, so much nicer to walk on than the pebbly beaches of the Cote d'Azur. After two hectic weeks in Nice - wonderful but tiring - I've come to Alassio to relax, enjoy the sea, and write.

The bagni are ready for the summer crowds.

In July and August, Alassio swells with untold numbers of vacationers eager for the beach experience, but the day I arrived in early June, the beach was nearly empty. The local beach concessions, known as stabilmenti balneari or bagni, are up and ready for customers, offering two lounging beds (lettini) and a large umbrella for 20-50 euros per day. A bit exorbitant for my budget, so I sought out the free beach (spiaggia libera). It took a while, but I eventually spied a small, empty space sandwiched between two bagni. That will be my go-to spot for the next week.

La spiaggia libera.

An Italian friend informed me that free beaches must be provided in each town, by Italian law. In addition, the first ten meters of the shoreline (bagnasciuga) must be left open for public use, so that people can walk along the beach. Looking deeper into the beach rules in Italy, I discovered that many changes are in store, and some have already been implemented. In Sorrento and Rapallo, for instance, swimwear is not allowed on city streets, and large fines are given to those walking around only in swimsuits. In Le Cinque Terre, flip-flops are not allowed on the hiking trails. 

A view to the east of town.

A major change is in store for the 30,000 concessions (the previously mentioned bagni)  that cover 98% of the beaches in Italy. To comply with EU regulations , a new law going into effect next year means that instead of families automatically renewing their licenses to run the concessions, as they have done for generations, they will have to compete with interested parties from across the EU, which could introduce big businesses. The law was to take effect in December 2023, but Meloni's government has provided n extension for one year. It has become an understandably volatile controversy. Italians have been complaining for years about the high cost of going to the beach while the concession owners fear the loss of their livelihoods. How things will play out in the next several years is anyone's guess.

My plan is to hit the beach by 9 a.m. each day and enjoy a few hours of beach life while people are few in number and before it gets hot. But I also enjoy watching children at play in the sand, witnessing other activities of beach life as they unfold, and being part of that life, so unlike my landlocked home in the States. It would be a shame to see this kind of beach experience altered or constrained by too many rules.

While in Italy, I also went to Genova, Boccadasse, Camogli, Rapallo, Santa Margherita Ligure, Portofino, and Zoagli along the Italian Riviera, and will post about those adventures at some point. But Alassio was the highlight of my time in Italy this year.

Sperlonga

The beach at Sperlonga

Here are some scenes from Sperlonga, a small seaside town, halfway between Rome and Naples, that I visited last year. To get there, I took the train from Rome to Fondi, then a bus to Sperlonga, about 10 miles west of Fondi. Sperlonga is favored by Italians in the area, but unknown to most Americans.

A view of the village from the beach: it's a good climb to reach the centro storico (old town).

I spent part of every day at a nearby beach. A section of it was free, and it was a great place to walk, swim, and sunbathe. The beach was a short walk from the B&B where I stayed, which was nice, but pricey.

Bougainvillea covered the walls of many buildings in the centro storico. 

I trekked up and down the various paths to the centro storico: some were easier than others. The old town was mostly geared to tourist trade, and was often empty during the day, but livened up in the evening. On the weekend there was a band playing in a small piazza, as more tourists came to town for shopping and dinner.

Another view of the village from below.

Since Sperlonga juts out into the sea, there are different views from the three sides of the village.

This beach is to the south of the old town.

A view of the north beach from the centro storico.

Torre Truglia.

Torre Truglia was built in 1532 to defend the area against attacks from the sea. Built on the foundation of a pre-existing Roman watchtower, it was then destroyed two years later by Ottoman pirates, rebuilt in 1611, then attacked again by the same pirates in 1623. Between 1879 and 1969 it was used by the Guardia di Finanza, but now belongs to a Marine Education Center. When I visited it, there was nothing to see inside but an old man serving as a caretaker, listening to a transistor radio.

I had some of the best meals I've ever eaten in Italy during my stay...fresh fish creations that were not only tasty, but beautifully presented. And the prices were surprisingly reasonable.  Like Ischia, I could easily return to Sperlonga, again and again.

From Ristorante Altro: Tortelloni asparagi con gamberi. (Asparagus tortelloni with shrimp.)
Scrumptious! I ate several times at this restaurant.

Calamaro stuffed with spinach in a blackberry cream, with black rice. The chef at Altro invented this dish and brought it to me himself. One of the best meals I've eaten in my life!

From Da Martini sul Ponte: Seared tuna encrusted with pistachio and sesame seeds. Yum!

Spello, Italy: L'Infiorata

A view of the Umbrian landscape from Spello.

I've been traveling again, finally, after a long spell. This time I didn't bring my computer along, so I'll be writing most of my posts once I return home, where I will also be able to access photos from my digital camera. It's a laborious process trying to create posts on my tablet, so most of them will come later. And photos taken on my phone will have to suffice.

I traveled with my son for 16 days: ten were spent in Paris, and six in Italy. Now Jesse has returned to the States, and I have ten days to explore some new sights on my own in Italy. I came to Spello for the annual celebration of the feast of Corpus Christi, L'infiorata, which takes place on the 9th Sunday after Easter.

Traveling with Jesse was a departure from my usual mode of going it alone. We were both eager to explore Paris in more detail than previous visits, and I had the chance to share Italy with him for the first time. The pace of traveling with him was a challenge for me, as we walked 8-10 hours (sometimes more!) almost every day, and we were out late many nights, which is not my usual travel habit. But we crammed in a lot of rich experiences during our time together. Staying in Spello will give me a chance to process the previous weeks, relax, recover, and write.

The first mention of the Infiorata was recorded in 1831, and paintings of the celebration started appearing in the early 1900's. Designs made with flower petals, leaves and herbs cover the village streets, creating a carpet of beauty along the winding, sometimes steep passages.

A design is laid down on the street, beneath a protective structure.

It was exciting to watch the Spellani at work on their flower creations. Groups of children and adults pulled or cut fresh flowers, separating the colors to fit the design. About 15 million flowers of nearly 65 different species are collected. Petals from different flowers are used either fresh or dried to obtain a wider palette.

More than 2,000 people of all ages are involved. During the "Night of Flowers", they might work 14 hours to complete the carpets.

Work on the designs began in the evening, and continued through the night on many of the more elaborate ones.

At sunrise, more than 60 floral creations ranging from 15 to 70 square meters cover the streets of the historical center of Spello. Soon after, a religious procession passes on the flower carpet, reminding the observers of the ephemeral beauty of the Infiorata.

The finished design.

On Sunday morning, crowds of tourists, mostly Italians, started arriving about 8.a.m. I had been warned to get out early, so I went out at 5:30 a.m., only to find that quite a few of the larger pieces were still being worked on. I went back out at 8:30, found the streets crowded and nearly all of the work complete. The designs are judged according to a variety of criteria, including age group, creativity and elaboration. A religious theme is always present.

The course of the Infiorata started at the bottom of the village, then wound around the steep streets to the highest point, and back down to a medium point. Though I walked most of the course, I found even more designs later in the day that I had missed earlier. My photos don't do justice to the designs, as it was difficult to get the right angle to capture the long or wide creations.

Misting the flower petals to keep them fresh.

By the afternoon, the carpets of flowers were drying out, and the crowds started to diminsh. By evening, street cleaning machines were whisking away all traces of the beauty and creativity that was evident only a few hours previously. I feel privileged to have had ths chance to witness Spello's Infiorata: it was well worth the journey to get here.

Firenze: Settling in San Niccolo

A view of Florence from our neighborhood in San Niccolo.

I've returned to the San Niccolo quartiere of Firenze this year. I'm sharing an apartment with Anne, a friend from Norway that I met last year in the hall of this palazzo, where I had rented a different apartment. We're on the 3rd piano (4th floor), and it takes walking up 60 steps to reach our place. But it's lovely and comfortable, and much more affordable than previous rentals in Florence. Outside, there's a lively piazetta, with several cafès, a wine bar, several restaurants, a forno (bakery and baked foods), an alimentari (small grocery), a cartoleria (stationery store), a gelateria, and various other shops. There's also a chiesa (church) nearby: we can see the bell tower from our kitchen window and hear the bells quite clearly when they ring. We're right inside the city walls, and the nearby Porto (exit) leads to Piazzale Michelangelo, high above the city. It's my favorite part of Florence, and I feel lucky to be living in San Niccolo two years in a row.

Waiting in line at the Uffizi for free entrance.

The day after I arrived in Florence, the state museums were open to the public for free, and I took advantage of the opportunity to go the the Uffizi. I arrived about 15 minutes after it opened, but had to wait in line for an hour before getting in. Since I've been there many times before, I know my way around, and visited the areas I most enjoy and the current exhibits, rather than trying to see everything.

Everyone loves Botticelli!

That evening, Anne and I went to dinner (cena) at one of the nearby restaurants. Anne is in Florence working on a Masters project, about the life of an apprentice learning the skills of art restoration. San Niccolo is a haven for artists, and there are many botteghe (artist workshops) here.

Cena with Anne at the nearby Osteria Antica

The next day, I met up with my friend Haruko, and we walked around the centro storico. We met up later with Anne, planning to attend the Festa della Rificolona, which I've attended several times in the past. Haruko introduced us to an interesting cafè in Piazza Repubblica, Cafè Giubbe Rosse, which was once a hangout for the literati of Florence. We stopped in for aperitivi to pass the time before the festa started.

Cocktails at Cafè Giubbe Rosse , with Haruko and Anne

We waited around in Piazza Santa Croce where the sfilata usually starts, then moved on to Piazza Signoria, but didn't see much happening in regards to the festa. However, there was a large crowd in front of Palazzo Vecchio, and we heard rumors that George Clooney was inside. Those rumors turned out to be true, but we never were able to see him. As the evening got darker, children started filling the piazza carrying their lanterns, and piano, piano (slowly) a band arrived. But it was not the New Orleans Jazz Band of previous years. Instead it was a city band, singing a religious song, which seemed more of a dirge than a celebration. Since Anne and Haruko had never attended the festa before, we were all disappointed that this year the parade was more somber than usual. You can read about a more festive version here:

Festa della Rificolona 

and here's a fun video, from 2010:
 

The ever-present Duomo.

I had a few days to get settled in before heading out with Haruko to visit Pienza and Montepulicano in southern Tuscany.

Montepulciano and San Quirico

Landscape on the way to Montepulciano

Well, the day started out okay, except for the fact that we couldn't catch a bus to Montepulciano until noon. So we decided to backtrack north on the bus route and visit a village called San Quirico. We had seen several hikers on the bus the day before who had stopped in San Quirico, and since we had time to kill, we thought we'd check it out. San Quirico is on the pilgrimage route via Francigena, which goes from France to Rome.

Chuch of Sts. Quiricus and Julietta

San Quirico is a small village, with only 2500 inhabitants, and there wasn't much to see there. We walked around for a few hours, then caught the bus going back towards Pienza that would take us to Montepulciano.

The landscape outside San Quirico.

A view of Val d'Orcia from the bus.

By the time we arrived in Montepulciano, there were ominous dark clouds moving in. We took a bus up to the centro storico of the village, which sits high on a 605-metre (1,985 ft) limestone ridge.
 
When we first arrived, the streets were filled with people, and we made our way up to Piazza Grande,  the high point of the village. As we strolled the area, it started to rain.

Piazza Grande

Palazzo Comunale (fashioned after Palazzo Vecchio in Florence)

Along the way, we saw an interesting clock tower, the Torre di Pulcinella.  Soon after, the rain was getting worse, and we ducked into a café for lunch.

Torre di Pulcinella, with a working clock at the top.

As soon as we got settled at a table, it started to pour heavily, but we were dry and safe while we ate a leisurely lunch, and drank a quartino (quarter liter) of Montepulciano's famous wine, Vino Nobile.

Cafe Poliziano, where we escaped from the rain.

In fact, most people come to Montepulciano for the wine, and there are numerous shops and cantinas where wine-tasting is available. However, neither Haruko or I are big wine-drinkers, so our sample at lunch was sufficient.

Montepulciano in the rain.

Our time in Montepulciano was hampered by not only the rain, but the bus schedule as well. There was only one option for getting back to Pienza that afternoon, and since it was raining, we didn't have much time to explore. We headed back to the bus station early rather than get drenched by the rain. Che peccato! Hopefully there will be another chance in the future to return and spend more time in this area.

A view of Montepulciano from the bus window.

Pienza, Val d'Orcia

Haruko and I set out for Pienza early one morning, which involved catching several buses: first, a direct bus from Florence to Siena, then a bus across town from Piazza Gramsci to the train station, where we caught another bus to Pienza.  It was a lovely sunny day in Tuscany, and we enjoyed the view from our bus windows.

The countryside of Pienza (grazie a Haruko)

Once we arrived in Pienza, we settled in at the B&B we'd reserved, and then set out to see the village, famous for the beautiful landscape and for pecorino cheese.

Piles of pecorino

Pienza is known as the "touchstone of Renaissance urbanism." In 1996, UNESCO declared the town a World Heritage Site, and in 2004 the entire valley, the Val d'Orcia, was included on the list of UNESCO's World Cultural Landscapes.

Outside the B&B

The village itself is very picturesque, with plants all along the streets: very charming and appealing to the many tourists who find their way here. Since traveling by bus to Pienza can be challenging, its best to visit this area by car. I had tried to get to Pienza twice before, but was stymied by the inconvenient bus schedule. On Sundays, there are no buses at all!

The greenery adds so much to the ambiance of the village.

Piazza Pio II

According to Wikipedia, "Pienza was rebuilt from a village called Corsignano, which was the birthplace (1405) of  Enea Silvio Piccolomini, a Renaissance humanist born into an exiled Sienese family, who later became Pope Pius II. Once he became Pope, Piccolomini had the entire village rebuilt as an ideal Renaissance town. Intended as a retreat from Rome, it represents the first application of humanist urban planning concepts, creating an impetus for planning that was adopted in other Italian towns and cities and eventually spread to other European centers."

Another scenic street.

In the evening, we walked along the passeggiata alla mura, a walkway on top of the city wall, and watched the sunset. There was also a full moon that night, but it was hard to get a good photo of it by the time it was in view.

One of the reasons we came to Pienza was to see the Val d'Orcia, which extends south of Siena to Monte Amiata. It has gentle, carefully cultivated hills, dotted here and there with trees, and picturesque towns and villages. It is a landscape which has become familiar through works of art that show the landscape, from Renaissance paintings to modern photographs. HOWEVER, I was surprised to learn that this landscape was not natural, but man made.

The Val D'Orcia landscape before sunset

The UNESCO site explains that the  landscape of Val d’Orcia was "redrawn and developed when it was integrated in the territory of the city-state in the 14th and 15th centuries to reflect an idealized model of good governance and to create an aesthetically pleasing picture. The landscape’s distinctive aesthetics, flat chalk plains out of which rise almost conical hills with fortified settlements on top, inspired many artists. Their images have come to exemplify the beauty of well-managed Renaissance agricultural landscapes". 

To be honest, I was disappointed to learn that the landscape was not natural, as I had assumed that the rolling hills punctuated by cypress trees were magical because of their natural beauty. Now I know that the trees were planted just so, for artistic effect. But I have to admit, the fact that the land was worked to create this effect in the 1500s is a miracle in itself.

Tramonto a Pienza (sunset in Pienza)

Now that we've seen what Val d'Orcia is like in September, we'd like to return some spring, when the landscape is totally green.

Procida and Sant'Angelo

Marina di Corricella, Procida

One day I took a hydrofoil for a 20-minute ride from Ischia Porto to the nearby picturesque island of Procida. The houses are painted in pastel colors, giving it a festive and attractive flair, but I quickly found that there is not much to do in Procida. I took a walking tour suggested by Lonely Planet, and it took me less than thirty minutes to walk from one side of the island to the other.  (Of course, that was a short side of the island, rather than the long side.)

Marina Grande, with oleander trees in bloom.

The boat landed in Marina Grande, the bustling port of the village. Few tourists come to Procida, and even fewer stay more than a few hours, but I found it to be worth the effort to visit, simply for the lovely views. I walked up a winding path, past a crumbling castle to see the panoramic views from the highest point of the island.

The view from Castello d'Avalos

On the way back to Ischia, I chose a cheaper hydrofoil, which only had a few people on it, and I was able to stand on the prow for the entire journey, soaking in the sun and the sea.....true bliss!

The view of Marina di Corricella from Piazza dei Martiri.

Posters remind visitors that Il Postino and The Talented Mr. Ripley were partially filmed in Procida.

Back in Ischia, on my last day I took a bus that circles the island, and spent a few hours visiting Sant'Angelo, on the southwest coast of the island. The large scoglio (a rock that emerges from the sea) is evident from the road, while the village itself is hidden from view. From the bus stop, there's a long walk, at least 20 minutes, down to the village.

The marina, with the great scoglio in the background.

There's even less to do here than in Procida, but it's a tranquil spot, where tourists like to sip wine and do some shopping. It's also possible to hire water taxis to the sandy beach, Spiaggia dei Maronti and the thermal waters in the cove of Il Sorgeto (mentioned in a previous post on Negombo).

Piazetta Ottorino Troia

The long walk back to the bus stop.

Both Procida and Sant'Angelo were worth the effort, as they provided a relaxing, beautiful and out of the ordinary experience of island life.