I vespi ed i gnudi

Il cancello (the gate) in the alley.

Wasps and gnudi

Well, so much for help with the hedges. A young man had offered his help trimming the hedges, as I'm allergic to wasp stings, the kind of allergic that can be deadly. The hedges are covered with honeysuckle vine and other tasty flowers that wasps enjoy, so they've made nests in the greenery that lines the alley.

The long hedge in the alley that must be kept trimmed.
(The yard extends beyond the 2nd telephone pole.)

I was not looking forward to overseeing Mauro, as I wasn't sure he was eager to do the work. But when the appointed time came, he was a no-show. While I was waiting for him to appear, I started trimming myself, and made it through a third of the length of the hedge. Since it was early in the morning, the wasps were not active, and I had long sleeves, long pants, gloves and a hat on, just in case. I'm usually working in my yard at home this time of year, and I enjoy the satisfaction that comes from sprucing things up. After waiting 90 minutes, it seemed obvious Mauro was not coming. He called an hour later: "sorry, I'm not feeling well, maybe next week I can help you with the plants." I told him that while I was waiting, I started doing the work myself, and I could finish it without his help. And he needn't worry about coming in the future. I didn't enjoy waiting nearly three hours to learn he wasn't coming, and I didn't want to deal with that again. Too bad: he missed the chance to make 50 euros helping me out this month.

By that time, it was heating up, so I turned my attention to another task: making gnudi. I discovered gnudi (naked ravioli) last year at a restaurant in Florence. It was quite delicious and light, an unusual find in Italy, where heavy meals are more common. Considered a Tuscan dish, it is similar to the filling that is often used in ravioli, but with gnudi, there is no pasta.

Gnudi production

Basically, it's a mixture of spinach, ricotta, parmigiano, eggs, and spices, formed into balls and then boiled. It can be served with a tomato-based sauce or sage butter. There are many recipes available online, and I'm still learning the process myself, so I won't include the ingredients here. If you're curious, here's a basic version:

gnudi-recipe

I'd tried making gnudi several times at home, but both times they turned out too heavy, due to an excess of flour. Today I used ultra-fresh, locally made ricotta (from a dairy down the street!), and the mixture turned out much fluffier than before: a good sign. I only added a little flour this time and though the gnudi turned out nicely formed, they were a little bland. I'll remix it tomorrow, add a few more spices and see what happens. I'm hoping to master this dish while I'm here, so I can serve it to my Italian friends with confidence.

La vita quotidiana a Zagarolo

An olive tree and rose bushes frame the path to the house.

Daily life in Zagarolo

Now that the sun has been out for several days, I find that I have a little slice of paradise in my new home. For instance, while I write this, I'm sitting on the patio in the sun, listening to a variety of birds that are hanging out in the numerous trees in the yard. There are fig, plum, olive, cherry, hazelnut, and almond trees, along with one tall pine, of the variety that produces the expensive pine nuts that are used to make pesto. Wild rose bushes are in bloom throughout the yard, and several varieties of wildflowers are scattered here and there in the grass. Numerous wind chimes play a variety of melodies in the breeze. There must be a good acre of land here, as it's easily three times the size of my yard in Kansas. In the background, I can hear a rooster crowing.

A fig tree up close; an olive tree, a cherry tree and the orto in the background.

There is also a small orto, or vegetable garden. Tomatos, red lettuce, arugula, and artichokes were the only plants started when I arrived, but I added about 20 basilico plants, bought at the Saturday market for 1 euro. Not one euro apiece, like they would be at home. No, there were about 30 small plants in a container that cost one euro. In addition to basil, there are huge bushes of sage, rosemary and thyme. Now if only I were a better cook! But I'll soon have two of the main ingredients for making pesto: basil and pine nuts.

More of the yard, with the pine tree in the background.

I've discovered that the sun shines on the southeast side of the house and patio for several hours in the morning, and comes around to shine for several hours on the west side in the late afternoon. So I try to take advantage of that time, sitting in the sun to write, read, or just savoring the ambiance of the setting. In the evening, if I walk down to the end of the yard, I can see lovely sunsets over the hills of Rome. It's lonelier here than it was in Florence, but at least I have the cats for company, and all of nature. Somehow, it feels more satisfying to be in such a peaceful, lush environment.

First Days in Zagarolo

This post is out of order: see post below for a more recent entry!!

My flight to Rome was uneventful, and I arrived at the Fiumicino airport early on Wednesday morning. I found the express train to Termini, Rome's main train station, where I located the regional train to Zagarolo. Unfortunately, I just missed one of them, as I was unable to get my ticket validated in time. (If you don't validate your train ticket before boarding, you could be liable for a hefty fine!) Three of the machines I tried were broken, and the train pulled out before I could locate one that was working. This meant I had more than two hours to wait for the next train. With my luggage in tow, and my energy low, I could do little more than sit on one of the two benches available and wait.

Once I arrived in Zagarolo, Deborah met me at the station and drove me back to her house, about five minutes from the station. After I got settled in and met the cats that I'll be in charge of during my stay, we drove into town to begin my initiation into the life I'll be living over the next two months.

To be honest, I'm unsure of the sequence of events that occurred during the 4 days of my "orientation," as I was involved in a whirlwind of activities. But here a a few highlights:

I practiced driving Deborah's car, a standard - shift Renault Twingo. It was intimidating at first, but after a few days, I got the hang of maneuvering the winding roads, the roundabouts and the speeding Italian drivers. One day we got a flat tire from a nail in the road, so I learned about the "gommista," the guy who fixes and changes tires. Sure am glad it happened while Deborah was still here!

I made the round of meeting some of her friends and colleagues, including Silvia, the cats' vet, and Paola, who runs one of the caffè bars in town. Paola's son Mauro will come to trim the hedges at the house, since there might be wasp nests and I'm allergic to wasps. I also met some of the neighbors and an English couple, Ken and Maria, who live in the nearby town of Gallicano.

I also met Valeria and Anna, two professional women who have been working on their English with Deborah, and would like to continue their weekly conversations with me. So, for 3-5 hours a week, I'll have two paying students to talk to, and will make enough money to cover my weekly expenses while I'm here.

I know I'll be writing more about the people I've met and all that's going on at the house, so I won't go into details yet. I'm swamped with online work this week, so I don't have much time to write.

However, one thing that continues a theme from my stay in Florence: it's cold here! And once again, I didn't pack enough warm clothes. Fortunately, Deborah has some things to ease the discomfort until things warm up, and I'm making good use of the bathtub at night. Soon enough, I'll probably be complaining about the heat!

L'ultimo giorno

Ponte Vecchio

It's my last day in Florence, and it was a pleasant one, with hours of sun, which encouraged me to spend most of the day walking around town.

In the morning, Nic came from the rental agency to check me out, and I discovered that the utilities were not as bad as I anticipated. In fact, I could have easily been more comfortable if I had used more heat and electricity. Since I had no idea what the cost would be, I was extremely conservative in my use of water, gas and electricity. I'd paid a 300 euro deposit to cover the utilities, and received half of it back! That means I spent an average of only 50 euros a month on all my utilities. Brava! Next time I'll know better and make myself more comfortable while I'm here!

The Duomo reflected in puddles in Piazza del Duomo

City workers were checking out the lights on via Corso today, so I got a glimpse of what they will look like, though it was too light to really see them well.

via Corso

With the money I got back from the agency, I was able to do some more shopping, and enjoyed being out and about again in the city. Even with intervals of rain, I had a pleasant time shopping and walking around.

A view of Ponte della Trinità

Tomorrow morning, I leave for Rome, where I'll spend a few days with my friend Lidia before my flight home on Thursday. It will be a bit warmer in Rome, and chissà (who knows), perhaps we'll even see some sun while I'm there. Speriamo! (let's hope so!)

Tonight the sky is clear, with an almost-full moon, and I'm wishing I didn't have to leave! But I'll be back in the spring, for more adventures. I still haven't made it to Verona, Volterra, and I'd love to see Venezia again. And to be here in spring...that will be an adventure of its own.

I'm not sure I'll have a chance to post again until I get home. Stay tuned for more stories of my adventures in Italy. Since my old blog seems permanently lost, I plan to recreate some of my previous travel stories on this blog while I'm in the States. It's one way to stay connected to life in Italy.

ciao a tutti!

p.s. The rental agency told me my apartment might not be available in the spring, which was a big disappointment. However, a friend has offered me an apartment that she rents to university students during the year, as it will be free from May through August. It's twice the size of the one I've had this time, has 2 bedrooms and a large yard with trees. It's not as close to my favorite places, but the price will be the same for much more comfort, and I can plant a vegetable garden. This is good news on my last night in Florence!

Il Cielo Michelangelesco

One of the many perks of my apartment is that I have a great view of the sky, and today I watched the clouds roll by throughout the afternoon while I was working. Great heaps of clouds marched across the sky, as if they were in a hurry to pass over the city as quickly as possible, eager to reach the sea. Every so often, a patch of blue would appear, but within a short time the sky would be dark again with ominous-looking clouds. At times, there were rumbles of thunder, and it even hailed tiny bits of ice all over the terrazza for a while.

I was mesmerized by the cloud formations, the different levels of them, and the many colors that were visible. While I was talking to my friend Marco in Modena on Skype, I was trying to describe my view of the sky out my window. He said "diciamo il cielo Michelangelesco" (we call that a sky by Michelangelo). Perfetto! Che bellissimo! Sometimes il maltempo (lousy weather) creates beautiful visions that makes it all worthwhile.

Rain, rain, go away

It's raining....again. Heavy rain, for hours at at time. Uffa! I feel sorry for the folks who have come here for a special vacation and have to deal with pouring rain most of the day. When there's a lull, I grab my umbrella and hit the streets for an hour or two to see what's going on in the city. But the steady rain has certainly put a halt to any traveling plans I might be doing. Instead, I'm working more hours as a way of passing the time. I'm doing an online project that allows flexibility in how many hours I work, so I can work more hours than my original commitment (5 hours/day) if I want, and the more I work, the more I earn. The project ends this week, so it's a reasonable solution while I'm stuck indoors. And the weather forecast does not look promising for the next few weeks. UFFA! Not sure when I'll be able to do laundry again, either.

I've been making good use of the termosifoni (radiators) to heat my clothes in the morning and my pajamas at night before putting them on. I also use them to warm my towels before using them. But laundry is another matter. Without the sun, or a stendino (drying rack), it's pretty impossible to dry clothes in this apartment. I will probably hold out until I leave, only washing the necessities that dry quickly when the heat is on.

All too soon, I will be leaving Italy, heading home for the winter months, then returning to Firenze in the spring for another long stay. My apartment here is drafty, and spending the winter in Florence would be costly (to heat the apartment) and very uncomfortable. With the weather as it is, it's helping to ease the pain of leaving...I'm looking forward to my warm house, my bathtub and sunny Kansas skies.

acero (sugar maple)

My son has been sending photos of the trees in my yard as they change colors. I have several sugar maples that are stunning in autumn and a tiny Japanese maple that he gave me as a gift last year. This is its first fall season, and I'm missing the transformation.

acero giapponese (Japanese maple)

But then there's the reality of leaving what now feels like my new home. Only two weeks left in Firenze. Sob! I'll be flying home Thanksgiving day. Jesse has planned a welcome home meal for me...a thoughtful gesture!

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I'll be able to have a few more adventures before I leave, to Modena and Cremona and then to San Miniato for the truffle festival. If only it would stop raining!

TeeVoo (TV)

In Italian, tv is pronounced teevoo, and it seems more humorous to call it that, for some reason. I'm not a big fan of television in the first place, though it has taken over my life from time to time. In Italy, I only watch it for the purpose of learning the language, which amounts to watching one evening quiz show and movies when I can. But most movies don't start until 9:30 pm, and it's rare that I make it through an entire movie. The easiest ones to follow are children's movies: there is usually a dubbed American children's movie every Saturday night.

I'm no expert on Italian television, and only have a small tv with limited channel access, so I have a limited understanding of what's available. (Most Italians have cable or satellite tv, and access to hundreds of channels, as we do in the U.S.) So my observations may also be limited. However, I have noticed a few things:

• I avoid the news, as I do in the States, for the simple fact that it's usually depressing. In fact, a recent article in La Repubblica (national newspaper), entitled La TV della paura (tv of fear) reported that crime is the highlight of Italian newscasts, a tendency that is unique among other European nations. The article went on to say that this approach to news is creating more anxiety and fear among Italians. (Sounds a lot like American television, non è vero?)

• There are many jokes and comments about women on Italian television, so I won't go there, except to say that they are more likely to show a lot of skin and decolletage. Women are usually attractive and sexy on Italian tv, while men often are not.

• There are many discussion shows on Italian television, with panels of people sitting around and discussing various topics. (Not interesting or helpful to me, as they talk too quickly for me to comprehend much of it.)

• There are many American television shows and movies featured. They take good advantage of what the U.S. produces and simply dub in Italian voices.

• Nearly every foreign movie or tv show is dubbed in Italy...subtitles are rare, and Italians are experts at dubbing. It can be quite amusing to watch the Simpsons, Bones, and many other popular American shows in Italian. They are even able to match the voice tone of the original characters (like those on the Simpsons). Quite amusing!

There is one show that I watch in the evenings when I'm home: Chi vuol essere milionario? (You guessed it: Who wants to be a millionaire?) It's on every single night! The star of the show, Gerri Scotti, is something of a phenomenon, as he is also the spokesperson for most of the products that are featured in the commercials during the show.

It seems Scotti has the persona of the beloved portly uncle that everyone can trust, and he manages to sell everything from DSL service to chocolate, cleaning products to books, pasta to furniture, and everything in between. (When I mentioned this to one of my Italian friends, he offered this codicil: well, he only sells one brand of each product.) Coming from a culture where most celebrities only vouch for one product at a time, I find it amusing to see Gerri Scotti on most of the commercials for his nightly television show, often using the same set for different commercials. (My initial thought: Ka-ching! But I doubt that Scotti is making the money that one would make as an American spokesperson. It may even be part of his contract with the show.) Scotti is also the host of other shows, including a talent show for children called Io Canto (I sing.)

The format of the quiz show Chi vuol essere is one I prefer to the American version. For one, there is no time limit on answering the question. Discussion of the possible options seems to be the most important part of the show, rather than moving quickly up the scale of winnings. Contestants are encouraged to share their knowledge about each possible answer, and discuss why they choose their answers over the other possibilities. Watching the show has been a great venue for learning new vocabulary, as well as learning many new things about the history and culture of Italy. I can easily understand the questions because they are posted on the screen, which is also an advantage. If I don't know a word, I write it down to look up later. Many questions concern American culture and history as well, more than any other foreign country represented on the show. But since Italians grew up on American television, movies and culture, it's no wonder that information about the U.S. is common knowledge to many Italians.

To be honest, I think I'm going to miss "uncle" Gerri when I go back to the States: he's worked his magic on me. Go figure!

All'improvviso, é già freddo qui!

Suddenly, it's already cold here! A few weeks ago I didn't even need a jacket, and now I need warm clothes and gloves. I wasn't expecting such an abrupt change in the weather. The past few days it's been cloudy and in the 50's. Back home, temps are still in the 70's! When I was packing my clothes in August, I didn't consider that I would need winter clothes, so I only brought a few warm things and several jackets, but no heavy coats. I've managed to find a few inexpensive sweaters and a pair of gloves at the outdoor markets, and am layering the clothes I have.

Some of my scarves.

Scarves are a common sight in Italy at any time of year, but in the fall and winter, they are a necessity. Both men and women wear scarves, and not just for fashion. The streets are drafty and cold, and scarves help to minimize the effect of the cold. I've always enjoyed wearing scarves, and have a nice collection of them that grows every time I'm in Italy. But I could use some lessons in how to drape them creatively as I see many others do here. Scarves are also handy in cold, drafty apartments, another common experience in Italy.

This week I turned on il riscaldamento for the first time...the heating system. Many buildings have riscaldamento centralizzato, which means that every flat's heat is controlled by the owner of the building, who decides when to turn on the heat and at what temperature to maintain it. Often the city regulates when heat can be turned on and off, due to the limited and expensive resources in Italy (gas, electricity, etc.). I have riscaldamento autonomo in my apartment, which means I can turn the heat on and off as I like. But I'm not sure how to read the gauges yet. I have a small travel clock with a thermostat on it, and that helps me keep track of the temperature.

The heating system in my flat uses radiators, which are also nice for warming clothes and towels. But unlike my furnace at home, I can't keep the heat on all day and night, as it would be much too expensive. So I'm learning to live with temps in the low 60's, and turning on the heat for a few hours at a time. Once it gets warm, the apartment stays comfortable for many hours, and I don't need the heat at all during the night. One thing I miss having here is a bathtub, but it's best not to have one because of the expense of using so much water and heating it. That's one thing I'll look forward to doing at home this winter.

The sun is shining again today, so that will help heat the apartment during the day. Ah, simple pleasures!

Fare il bucato: doing the laundry

Doing the laundry in Italy can be a challenge. Fortunately, I have a tiny front-loading washing machine in the kitchen of my apartment, and several clotheslines on the terrace where I can dry things.

la lavatrice (washing machine)

As a general rule, dryers are not commonly used in Italy. Utilities are expensive, and dryers have not become a common part of the Italian household. In Florence, it is also not common to see laundry on clothes lines hanging from windows...there may be an ordinance against it because it's considered unsightly. Most people use a folding stendino or drying rack, placed in the hallway of the home when clothes need to be dried. I often see my neighbor's stendini sitting on the roof across from my terrace when they do laundry. I feel fortunate that I can dry my clothes on the terrace, in the sun. This means that I only wash clothes on sunny days, which is fine with me.

hanging out on the terrace to dry

I didn't have any clear instructions on how to use the washing machine, and the first load I washed took three hours! I was alarmed by this, hoping to avoid having high utility expenses while I'm here. I asked for some advice, and the next load I washed, I tried the "rapid" cycle, which only took 30 minutes, but didn't clean the clothes well or add the fabric softener. Today, I tried another setting, and found the right one....it takes about 75 minutes, but I hear that is normal for washing machines in Italy. They use less water, and there are pauses in the agitation cycle, so it can change directions. It's considered to be more energy-efficient as well. I don't have to wash my clothes often, and so it's quite manageable. However, once the cool, wet weather sets in, I'm sure to be less eager to deal with fare il bucato. But there's nothing like the smell of fresh, clean, sun-dried sheets!

Semplicità, bellezza e ricchezza

Simplicity, beauty, riches

I love my life here...there is so much to do and see, but underscoring everything is the beauty of simplicity. What I mean is this: I have brought few clothes; I have few dishes to use; the apartments is small, with little furniture; my chores are few, etc. The trappings and duties of my life here are simple.

morning sky from my bedroom window

On the other hand, la ricchezza surrounds me everywhere. I never tire of walking by the Duomo and being dwarfed by its majesty. At any time of day or night, it commands respect and awe.

The Duomo

Piazza della Signoria reminds me of the rich history and events that have influenced not only Italian life, but cultures around the world for millennia.

Palazzo Vecchio in Piazza della Signoria

And la bellezza! Beauty is everywhere: in the art, the landscape, the faces of young and old, and certainly, the fashion. I've become fascinated with the endless variations of shoes here...my gaze is often focused on people's feet as I stroll the streets of Firenze.

Loggia dei Lanzi in Piazza della Signoria, home to many famous scuptures

My life here suits me, as there is some new treasure to find every day. Last night I went to a concert in the famous church, Orsanmichele, just down the street from my apartment. The atmosphere and attire was casual, but the music (pieces by Haydn and Mozart, featuring a reknowned cellist) was superb. Today or tomorrow I will cross the Arno river to visit Santo Spirito, where a crucifix by Michelangelo was recently returned to the altar in this church, and a week-long schedule of events has been planned in celebration. Even in these events, there is simplicity: no fancy tickets or attire are needed: it's the music, the art and the setting that commands and deserves our attention. Indeed, music, art, beauty are embedded in every facet of life here: it's no big deal. It simply IS. And I feel no loneliness in attending these events, as I often do at home. I am not singled out as a woman alone: instead, I am one of a community who enjoys being inspired.

I do not even mind the crowds here, for I know we are all here to witness something extraordinary, and the emotions that are evident on everyone's faces merely reflect what I feel in my heart at being here: JOY! EXCITEMENT! AWE!

Si, this life suits me. I can already see that three months will be insufficient: how about three years...or three decades?

Casa mia

It's still a new feeling to come "home" to my apartment in Firenze. After three days of traveling to Bologna and Lucca, it was nice to have a place of my own to return to. As is often the case, even the elevator seemed to welcome me...it was standing ready, with its doors open, to escort me upstairs.

I started a work project as soon as I returned, which will occupy my attention for several weeks, but it's a thrill to be working here almost as easily as I am able to work in the States. I have created a comfy workspace for my computer near the door to the terrazza, with a view to the open sky. I have my mornings free to go to market and enjoy the city streets before the crowds arrive, then work in the afternoons when it's best to avoid them. I have a lovely view as I work, and the sound of church bells throughout the day reminds me that I'm in Italy.

my work space

La mia città

Palazzo Vecchio (left) Duomo (right)

Duomo (left) Santa Croce (right)

Here are a few photos I took yesterday from Piazzale Michelangelo, where there are panoramic vistas of Florence. It seems that many tourist buses stop there, and that will be the only experience many people will have of Florence, to see it from a distance. But what a view!

to the east of the city

Update: The technico arrived yesterday and fixed la caldaia (hot water heater)...it only took ten minutes! But it still takes several minutes for the water in the bathroom to warm up. I've been heating water on the stove to wash dishes, and kind of enjoyed that habit. Utilities are expensive here, so it's best to learn how to conserve energy in any way possible. I'm thankful I have many windows that can soak up the sun: when it's cool outside, I can heat the place with the sun and it lasts a long time, because of the thick walls of the building. We'll see how that works in November....

Going to market

I really lucked out. I think I live in one of the best parts of Florence. I enjoy being able to walk to the market each day for fresh fruit and vegetables, so much more flavorable than even the homegrown vegies we had in Lawrence this year. I've become a big fan of the small pears that they sell here...the perfect size for a snack with cheese.

I rarely spend more than 5 euros, yet come home carrying bags laden with riches: zucchine, peppers, grapes, olives, melon, tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, figs, pears, and more. There is also freshly made pasta, meats, cheeses, lettuces at the mercato aperto (open market) ; too many things to recount with ease.

La frutta e verdura dal mercato
(fruit and vegetables from the market)

And then there's the indoor market, with every imaginable kind of fresh fish, meat or cheese. There's even one counter that sells only cuts of horse meat, often eaten in Italy. I'm not a big meat eater, so don't usually frequent this part of the Sant'Ambrogio market, but it's a hopping place with the locals.

One of my Skype friends, Massimo in Bologna, gave me several lessons on shopping at the market during our language exchange meetings this summer. It's been very helpful to know the colloquial way of interacting with the vendors, even though they seem eager to speak English in return.

Mb: Mi da' un etto di quello? (Can you give me 4 ounces of that?)
Vendor: Certo. Eccolo. (Sure, here it is.) Altro? (anything else?)
Mb: Altro! (that's all). Grazie! (thanks)
Vendor: Grazie a lei! (back at ya)

Simple enough, eh?

Borgo degli Albizi
outside my front door

I've noticed that this week many of the shops on my street are offering gli sconti (discounts) on many things; slashing prices up to 70% on items like shoes and leather coats. Amazing bargains! I've seen many expensive summer shoes on sale for 10 euros! But maybe that's only for sizes they have trouble selling...I'm not really in the market for shoes, so I haven't checked further then looking at them in the shop windows.

One of the odd shoe designs I've seen a lot of lately is the sandal that looks like a boot from the back of the foot. You see a sandal from the front, and a boot from the back: this was especially evident in Rome. I'm often amazed by the incredible variety of shoe designs worn by women here, from sandals to four-inch stiletto heels. Ouch! It'll be fun to see how the shoe designs change with the seasons.

Firenze apartment photos

I'm enjoying my apartment more and more and realizing how fortunate I am to have found such a gem. It's a rare thing to have a terrace and abundant sunlight, not to mention having a sense of tranquility and privacy in the centro storico (historical center) of Firenze. Since I have access to another apartment to take showers for a few days, I can compare my place with another one that I had considered renting from the same agency.

view of morning sky from my bedroom window
(please ignore the antennas, etc.)

The other apartment is darker, with only north windows that face the street. No sunlight will ever stream in through the windows! It's on the second floor, so the street noise can be heard through the windows. It has the same amount of space, but more furniture (unnecessary for me). It does have a nicer bathroom, with a bathtub, but I'd rather have the terrace, quiet and lots of sun! I chose the place based on a few photos... I sure feel lucky!

Here's a link to an album of photos of the apartment:
Firenze Apartment

I'm on the fourth floor, with easy access by an ascensore (elevator), another unusual convenience in this part of town. There's a supermercato (a glorified convenience store, with all the essentials) one block away, a gelateria (with gelato made fresh each day) across the street, and the open market at Sant'Ambrogio is only a 5-minute walk. I can also easily walk to the Duomo, the train station, Santa Croce, Ponte Vecchio, and other famous sites within 10 minutes.
I've been walking at least an hour each morning, and go out again for the passeggiata, or evening stroll that is common in most parts of Italy, walking a different route each time.

Last night I strolled over to Piazza Santa Croce, where a woman was singing arias in the center of the square, and those of us privileged to be there were enthralled by the power and beauty of her voice. Incredible acoustics! Now I understand why so many concerts are held in that piazza...the sound reverberates off of the buildings that surround it, including the magnificent church, Santa Croce, where the tombs of Michelangelo, Galileo and Dante reside (though Dante is actually buried in Ravenna, where he died in exile).

Santa Croce

La Vita Nuova

Front door of my apartment building in Firenze

Starting a new life takes a period of adjustment. I felt disoriented for the first two days, which was compounded by some problems with the apartment I'd rented. The main one: no hot water. Also, the wifi connection was inconsistent. Other problems of less importance: the tv didn't work, there were no blankets for the bed, some of the light fixtures didn't work, etc. But once I emailed the agency, they sent over two young men, Mattias and Nic, to help resolve the problems.

For the next few days Mattias came and went, and while he worked, we had some great chats. Nic brought his dog along when he came to figure out the computer connection, and brought grapes to share with me. Both men were very laid back, attentive, apologetic, eager to keep me in the apartment by making sure everything is working properly.

No hot water! After both men fiddled with the caldaia (hot water heater), they decided they would need to have a tecnico (technician) look at it. But that won't happen until next week. In the meantime, they've given me the keys to an empty apartment two floors down, so I have access to a shower (and a bathtub!).

In other respects, my apartment is absolutely marvelous! It's quiet, private, with a view and lots of sun coming in through large windows. Tile floors throughout, and vintage furniture that suits me. The bed is queen size, though it lacks good support for my back. The bathroom is basic, but sufficient. I've enjoyed making the place more homey...buying petunia and basil plants for the terrace, and a few things for the kitchen. I can hear other tenants now and then, and it seems that they are mostly Italians, but I've not yet seen any of them in the building.

About the FLOW meeting (Florence Writers) that I was eager to attend...I was unable to find the cafe it was being held at, even though I walked right by it THREE times! There was no sign, I did not see a number for the address on the building, and I finally gave up and called it a loss. I met the group leader, Melinda, the next day for un caffé, and she recapped the meeting for me.

Oh, the other night Leonard Cohen gave a concert down the street from me, in the Piazza Santa Croce, part of his World Tour. I saw the stage being dismantled and asked what it was for. It's only a few minutes walk from my apartment....if I'd known about it, I'd surely have walked by. Al Pacino was in the audience, I hear.

I wonder what else is happening here.....guess I need to find out!

First day in Florence

La terrazza

I'm sitting on the terrace of my apartment in Florence, Italy. It's a cool September evening, and the resonant sound of bells from a nearby church fills the air. I have a view of the hills to the east of town, and I can see the sky from my bed in the morning, as the sun rises. Otherwise, the view from the terrazza is of the roofs or walls of adjoining buildings. But I have a very private, quiet space, so I can hang out on the terrace whenever I like. I have many large windows in the kitchen and the bedroom. The glass-paned door to the terrace also serves as a window, opening into a small space which serves as the "living room," with an antique love seat, a wicker chair and a small table.

On the terrazza there's a table, an umbrella to shade it and a variety of chairs and chaises. I'll be looking for plants to decorate the space with. There's a cool breeze wafting by now, and I'm happy to just sit still for a while. I ventured out to a nearby supermarket to buy some staples for the apartment: fruit, cereal, pasta, vegetables, cheese, tuna, eggs, milk, dish soap. My place is four floors up from the street, and very quiet, but once I approach the front door of the building, I can hear the noise of the city. No cars are allowed in this area of town, but there's a steady stream of people, mostly locals, on foot or bike, along with the sound of conversation and the clatter of dishes from a nearby cafe.

I can hardly believe I'm here!

My Room with a View

Actually, I’ve found a studio apartment with a view…from a terrace! After several weeks of viewing rooms and apartments from the options available on Craigslist, I decided to go with an agency to find the right place. And I’ve found a charming little place to live next fall during my stay in Firenze (Florence, Italy).

Since I will need to work while I’m there, I had some prerequisites that are non-negotiable: I needed a place with a fast internet connection, somewhat quiet, where it would be safe to leave my computer and belongings when I travel to other cities for a few days. I also had a certain area of town I wanted to live, near Santa Croce and the Sant’Ambrogio open market.

First I looked at single rooms in multi-person lodgings, but the apartments offered several rooms, a fully equipped kitchen, a washing machine and more. Once I came across the studio apartment with the terrace, I had trouble imagining myself anywhere else. When I contacted the agency, I received quick and thorough responses to my questions. I found the cost a bit daunting, as it includes not only a booking fee, but also a security deposit and a hefty monthly rent. If all goes well with my work while I’m there, it should be no problem managing the expense. If not, I can just squeak by with my savings, though I may have to limit other expenditures during my stay. I’m willing to take the risk.

In addition to being near Santa Croce and the open market, the apartment is equidistant from other favorite places: the Duomo, and Piazza D’Azeglio, where there is a large park I love to hang out in. I can easily walk to any of these places within 5 –10 minutes. In any case, I’ve booked the apartment, and can start to imagine being there: waking up to a view of the city of Firenze from my terrace; walking to the open market for fresh produce each day; sharing a glass of wine with friends from the terrace in the evenings. I feel quite certain it will be worth the expense!

awaiting company!