Monday, September 1, 2014

Rome: Via Appia Antica, Trastevere


Via Appia Antica
My next stop was the Via Appia Antica, which I visited several years ago, but wanted to see again. In particular, I wanted to walk farther along the path, which stretches across Italy, from Rome to Brindisi, on the Adriatic coast. The main part of the Appian Way was started and finished in 312 BC.

A serene setting.
I took bus 118 from the Baths of Caracalla out to the catacomb of San Sebastiano, the farthest bus stop along the road. Then I walked for another hour, traversing the stones placed thousands of years ago by the Romans. Most people never get this far on the road, since one has to come by foot or bicycle. But there are many miles to go, if you're so inclined.

These stones were placed in 312 B.C.
I think that people get discouraged, because a long stretch of the road has everyday traffic, and then another long stretch has private residences on either side of the road. It's only after walking several hours that one gets to the best views, where the road is lined with cypress trees and surrounded by the quiet countryside. Well worth the walk, but next time I'll rent a bicycle and go even further.

Musicians playing in the piazza
On my last evening in Rome, I caught a bus, filled to capacity, to ride across town to Trastevere, one of my favorite spots in Rome. It's always entertaining, with its bohemian flair, and people swarm there on weekend nights. It's the "in" place to eat, though it's best to avoid the restaurants that offer a "tourist" menu, as it means they're serving food prepared ahead of time.

A wine bar with a unique look
Lungo il Tevere festival
From June to the last day of August temporary bars, restaurants and shops are opened next to the Tiber river for a festival called Lungo il Tevere (Along the Tiber). It's always fun to see the booths lighting up the river.

Lungo il Tevere booths with St. Peter's basilica in the background.
All too soon, it was time to catch the bus back to Termini and get packed to leave Rome.  Next stop: Naples!


Sunday, August 31, 2014

Rome: Aqueduct Park and the Baths of Caracalla

Parco degli Acquedotti 
On my second day in Rome, I headed out early to visit the Parco degli Acquedotti or Aqueduct Park  south of the city.  Tourists rarely venture here, but there were many Romans out doing their daily dose of exercise: walking, biking, running, strolling with friends or dogs. 

Easy pickings: fresh figs!
Since the park is protected from development, it has a rustic air, with numerous wild flowers, along with fruit and nut trees along the paths. I even stumbled upon a man picking ripe figs from the numerous fig trees at the park, There's also a small waterfall from a stream running through the park: it was weird to hear the running water while imagining the transport of water across 45 miles of terrain.

The landscape of the Aqueduct Park
Next, I went to Terme di Caracalla,  or Baths of Caracalla. They were the second largest public baths built in Rome between AD 212 and 216. The sheer size of the remaining structures are impressive, making one wonder, "How did they do that?" Not just how did they build it, but how did they use all that space, just for baths?

Remnants of the past
Wikipedia comments that “Emperor Caracalla had the complex built as a piece of political propaganda. Romans from every social class enjoyed themselves in the impressive, exquisitely detailed building. Not only did this create a sense of unity, it also improved the public’s opinion of Caracalla because they attributed their pleasurable experience and lavish surroundings to him."
 
A rendering of the Roman baths
In modern times, the design of the baths was used as the inspiration for several modern structures, including New York City's Pennysylania Station. In the summer months operas are performed at a open air theater built near the ruins.

Portions of the floor that have been restored.
 Later in the day, I walked along the Via Appia Antica: more on that in the next post.

Friday, August 29, 2014

Rome: Pincio Park

Maritime Pines, Pincio Park
Having been to Rome often over the years, I didn’t have much planned for my brief stay this year. I booked a great little B&B where I’ve stayed several times in the past: near the Termini train station, and only 35 euros a night! Little Italy is a good walk from Termini, but it’s close to a metro stop and is run by Rene, a very attentive host.
Che tranquillo!
I arrived in Rome about 8:30 in the morning, to hot and humid weather. Very hot and very humid. Kind of like the weather at home! I was exhausted, so after I checked in, I crashed for a few hours before heading out in the city. I felt drawn to visit Pincio, a massive park on the other side of town. I took the metro and found myself in a part of the park I’d never seen before. There was a small lake, and row boats for hire for those wanting to join the ducks and swans paddling around in the water. I headed over to Villa Borghese, home of a famous art gallery with a wonderful collection of statues by Bernini. 

Moonlight Sonata amidst the trees in Pincio.
I’ve been to the gallery before, and wasn’t in the mood to be in a museum, so I opted instead to continue walking around the park, listening to a classical guitar player by the lake, and a jazz saxophone player closer to the Villa Borghese. The main thing that keeps pulling me back to Pinco are the maritime pines that look graceful over much of the part. I’m always entranced by their elegant beauty. 

Stately and elegant pines in Pincio
On the way back to the B&B, I stopped by several familiar areas: the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, and the Trevi Fountain (now under construction) but was simply too tired to enjoy them for long.

The Pantheon, one of my favorite places in Rome
After nearly five hours of walking, I headed back to the B&B, stopping to eat dinner at an outdoor café near Santa Maria Maggiore, a huge and beautiful church in this part of town.

Cafe where I had dinner, with the cupola of Santa Maria Maggiore in the background.

Sunday, August 17, 2014

A cool summer of plenty

Volunteer Hibiscus in my yard
I'll be heading for Italy again next week, but wanted to comment on the fabulous summer we've had in Lawrence this year. It's been so cool I've hardly used the air conditioning at all. And lately, it's been raining enough that I haven't had to water the garden for weeks.

The mini-computer on my handlebars
I've been on an exercise regimen for the past several months, swimming laps at the outdoor pool in the mornings, and riding my bike in the evenings. My son gave me a computer for the bike which tracks my mileage, and it's spurred me on, to ride more than 400 miles in the past few months. Funny how a little thing like that can become a taskmaster! We have a great public pool in Lawrence, and in the mornings, it's open only for lessons and lap swimming. It's like going to a private country club. There's a group of  about ten of people that I see there every summer, avid swimmers like me.

My favorite place to swim: Outdoors!
Lately, I've made batches of blueberry/peach jam, blueberry preserves, basil pesto and tomato sauce made with roasted Romas, fresh from my garden. The peaches came from my sister's trees, and the blueberries were on sale at a  nearby store. Such plenty is always welcome!

Blueberry-peach jam and a few tomatoes from the garden.

Next week I fly to Rome for a two-month stay in Italy. The first week will be spent in Rome, Naples and Ischia, and then I head to Florence. This year will be quite different, as I'll be sharing an apartment in Florence and traveling with friends most of the time, instead of by myself. I'll also have several friends from the States visiting, including my brother, who's coming on a motorcycle!

By the way, if you want a mouth-watering roasted tomato sauce, here's the recipe I used. It's easy and incredibly delicious! 


a presto!

Monday, July 14, 2014

A NICE surprise!


Haruko and I are planning a trip to the French Riviera in October, going by train from Florence to Nice, and since we're arranging things three months in advance, we were able to get train tickets for less than 30 euros each (one way)! It will take @ six hours and two train changes, but we'll travel along the Italian Riviera for several hours before we get to France, so who cares?

We also found lodging for four nights at a hotel in Vieux Nice, the central part of town, for only $55 apiece per night, which is less than my son has paid for cheap motels in the U.S.

Besides Nice, we plan to visit Grasse, famous for its perfume factories and Eze, along with several other scenic villages in the hills above Nice.  Monaco is also on the list. I'm tickled this came together so easily, and that I'll have someone to share the adventure with. On the way back to Florence, we'll stop in Genova for several hours.

Nice, here we come!

Wednesday, July 2, 2014

Pienza on My Mind

Pienza  (flickr.com/people/sherseydc/)
As I slog through long hours of working on another online project, I'm spurred on by the awareness that the income from my efforts will allow me to spend several months in Italy again this fall. One of the destinations I'm headed to for the first time is Pienza, a small hill town south of Siena. I've made several attempts to get there in the past, but was thwarted by the uncertain transportation involved. It was especially difficult to plan while I was living in Zagarolo, as it required several train and bus changes. And buses don't run on Sunday, so I couldn't plan a weekend trip. But this year I'll be going there from Florence, which requires only two bus changes, and about 3 hours of travel. My friend Haruko will be accompanying me, which will make the excursion even better.

 
Val d'Orcia ( DWELSingapore)
One of the reasons that people flock to Pienza is because of the incredible landscape that surrounds the town, in the region of Val d'Orcia. You may have seen many photographs of the fields and hills of the region that have been captured on calendars boasting the beauty of Tuscany. Both Pienza and Val d'Orcia are World Heritage sites. Pienza was rebuilt as an “ideal town” in the 15th century. According to Wikipedia, "Intended as a retreat from Rome, Pienza represents the first application of humanist urban planning concepts, creating an impetus for planning that was adopted in other Italian towns and cities and eventually spread to other European centers."

As for Val d'Orcia:

"In 2004 the Val d’Orcia was added to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites under these criteria:
  • Criterion (iv): The Val d’Orcia is an exceptional reflection of the way the landscape was re-written in Renaissance times to reflect the ideals of good governance and to create an aesthetically pleasing pictures.
  • Criterion (vi): The landscape of the Val d’Orcia was celebrated by painters from the Scuola Senese, which flourished during the Renaissance. Images of the Val d’Orcia, and particularly depictions of landscapes where people are depicted as living in harmony with nature, have come to be seen as icons of the Renaissance and have profoundly influenced the development of landscape thinking."

The countryside near Pienza (amorosa.it)
We've booked a B&B for two nights, planning to spend one day in Pienza and another in Montepulciano, another hill town in the vicinity. Montepulciano is famous for its wine. Montalcino, another hill town popular with wine lovers, is a third destination, if we can fit it in.

Montepulciano (miriadna.com)
Meanwhile, Pienza is just a dream....but the reality of going there is getting closer every day!

Friday, June 13, 2014

Bring on the Bees!

Asiatic lilies in bloom
After a long stretch of non-stop work from February through May, I've had a few weeks off before the last big project of the season starts next week. I've been taking advantage of the free time to take long walks, swim and ride my bike, for several hours every day. And then there's the garden...lush from spring rains.

One of my favorite iris: a true beauty.
I had hundreds of iris blooming in May!
Though my son tells me I already do my part to encourage the proliferation of bees, we planted three new trees in the yard: a dogwood, a fig, and a cherry tree.

Brown Turkey Fig in the backyard.
Semi-dwarf cherry in the front yard.
White Dogwood in the side yard.
It's amazing how these small additions change the entire landscape of the yard, and will continue to change it in years to come. The ornamental cherry tree that I planted 10 years ago is now as tall as the house! I'm eager to see what these new trees will look like next spring.

Once July hits, I'll have more free time again to continue my walk/swim/bike regimen, and can start making serious plans for my return to Italy at the end of August. Two months in Florence, coming up! In the meantime, I will enjoy my yard and all the blooming beauty.