Giverny, France: Monet's Gardens

On a recent stay in Paris, my son and I took a side trip to Giverny, where Monet's home and gardens are located. Like many others, I have often dreamed of visiting the gardens where Monet spent most of his later years, creating the water lily paintings that have become so well-known and loved around the world. Even though our excursion turned into a bit of a nightmare, I was able to capture some lovely photos of this popular tourist destination.

(Be sure to click on the photos for a larger image!)

One of the famous lily ponds at Giverny.

Getting to the gardens involves taking a train, then a bus, followed by a short walk. We chose a Monday for our excursion, hoping to avoid the weekend crowds, unaware that it was a French national holiday. We had envisioned a day spent leisurely walking amidst the gardens and lily ponds of Monet's home. Instead, we found ourselves among hundreds of other tourists, including numerous French people on holiday.

When we arrived at Gare St. Lazare in Paris at 9 a.m. to get the train to Vernon, we discovered that there were only a few trains running that day (due to the holiday and ongoing train strikes), and the earliest one wasn't until noon. Not only that, but the only return train from Vernon would be at 6 p.m., giving us a short time to enjoy the gardens. (It takes about an hour to get to Vernon, then another 20 minutes to get the bus from Vernon to Giverny....so travel time is at least 2 hours each way, considering wait times, etc.) Little did we know that other obstacles would intrude to shorten our time even more. Rather than stand around the train station for several hours, we walked over to Galleries Lafayette and Printemps, two Parisian malls that have magnificent stained glass domes at their center. I'll be sharing photos of them in another post.

First view of  Monet's garden.

Once on the train, we were elated that the weather was perfect that day, with temps in the 70's, accompanied by blue skies and plump white clouds skittering around. Arriving in Vernon near 1 p.m. we quickly realized that most of the people on the train were also headed for Giverny, and four huge buses were lined up to transport all of us from the train station to the gardens. We were still in high spirits, though it took precious time to load everyone onto the buses. It's also possible to rent bikes in Vernon and bike to Giverny, and we might have gone that route if we'd had the entire day, as we had hoped. But given the shortened time frame, we joined the masses traveling by bus.

Jesse walking towards the entrance to the gardens.

Upon arriving in Giverny, we had another 10-minute walk from the parking lot to the garden entrance, where we discovered a line with hundreds of people waiting to get in. Thinking that the line would shorten after everyone from the buses was admitted, we opted to walk down the road to have lunch. We found a lovely restaurant with an outdoor terrace and feasted on galettes, though we ate quickly and weren't able to fully enjoy the meal or the view. In fact, I left Jesse there and returned to the line, hoping to save some time.

Alas, the line was no shorter than when we had left it, and we ended up waiting nearly ninety minutes to gain admission to the gardens. People were admitted one at a time, as there was only one person selling admission tickets, so the going was very slow. We were getting anxious by then, considering that we had less than an hour to view the gardens and get back to the parking lot at 5:10 p.m. for the bus ride back to the train station. If we missed that bus, we would be stuck in the area overnight, with little chance of finding lodging in the already overbooked towns of Vernon and Giverny.

Lovely flowers in bloom.

We finally entered the gardens after 4 p.m. and made our way quickly through it, unable to stop and enjoy most of what we were seeing. Fortunately, many flowers were in bloom, and bursting with color and beauty all around us. The famous lily ponds were across a road, and we went through a tunnel under the road to reach them. With so many people, it created a bottleneck, slowing down the crowds to get everyone through.  But it was certainly worth the wait! White wisteria blossoms covered one of the bridges, and the majestic weeping willows swayed over the lily ponds. In addition, the lighting was good for taking photos at that time of day.

White wisteria covering a bridge.

Wisteria up close.

I have read numerous books about Monet's life at Giverny, and would have loved to have the chance to sit and savor the views of his gardens.  I had hoped for a serene experience among the flowers, trees and lily ponds, instead of the rushed, Disneyland-type tourist event that we experienced. But at least we made it there! I know of others who visited during the early spring or fall when there were no crowds, but also no flowers in bloom, so we also lucked out in that respect.

One of the lily ponds, with weeping willow. 

We didn't have time to see Monet's house or to peruse the goods in the gift shop. As it was, we got to the bus just in time to head back to the train station. And then the train was late...and since it was the last train to Paris that evening, the train station was quickly crowded with people hoping to take it. Since it was the end of a three-day weekend for the French, they added a considerable number to the crowds needing to return to Paris. We had to shove our way into the train, and Jesse and I ended up standing like sardines in the space between the train cars.

Love those colors!

But then, a miracle happened. After about 10 minutes, the glass door of the train car opened, and a woman motioned me in. Everyone was chattering in French, trying to tell me something. Me? I didn't understand why, but they were urging me to take a seat in the middle of the car, that a young man was giving up.  I have ridden standing up on numerous trains and buses on my travels, and could have managed this one for the 60 minutes to Paris, but I guess I was the oldest person standing in that group, and welcomed the chance to sit down. I was so touched by the consideration of the French people, who waved me in and had to squeeze together while I passed by, that it brought tears to my eyes. Needless to say, I had a comfortable, pleasant return to Paris.

I would definitely recommend this excursion to others, with the caveat that it's not wise to travel on a French national holiday or when there are train strikes. Plan to go when the flowers are blooming and make sure you will have at least 3-4 hours to enjoy the gardens and other areas of Monet's home.

Pre-Paris: By the Books

For me, travel is all about learning. Language, culture, history, art, literature, music, food....these topics and more all come into play when I make travel plans. Preparing for a trip abroad can start months or even years in advance, as I do research to learn more about my destination so I can make the most of my travels. For an upcoming visit to Paris, my preparations began more than a year ago, reading accounts of the lives of Impressionist artists whose art will be a focus of my stay. Monet, Renoir, Manet, Rodin, Degas, Cassat, Morisot all figured prominently in my research. I whiled away the winter months absorbed in accounts of their lives, through both historical fiction and non-fiction books, some of which I will list at the end of this post. Though I previously visited Paris in 2012, this visit will be devoted to zeroing in on specific areas of the city that I want to explore.

More recently, I've turned to blogs and memoirs written by people who live in Paris for my research, as well as more general fiction, even some chick lit titles, that take place in Paris. One of the most interesting books I've read recently is one by Liam Callanan, previously known for his novel-turned-movie, Cloud Atlas. His new novel, Paris by the Book, is an inventive rendition of the ever popular "American adjusts to life in Paris" saga. In the process of reading the novel I was introduced to several other iconic books and an area of the city, usually forsaken by tourists, that I hope to explore while I'm there.

Rather than go into the plot of Callanan's book (which I wholeheartedly recommend), I'll mention the children's books that are integral to the storyline: the Madeline series by Ludwig Bemelmans, and The Red Balloon, by Albert Lamorisse, which later became an award winning 1956 short film. Though I read the Madeline books as a child, and have vague recollections of The Red Balloon story, revisiting them as a guide to my upcoming travels has been a playful and enlightening approach.

I also learned about the Menilmontant quartier of Paris, which is the setting for the Lamorisse film. Located between Montmartre and the Pere Lachaise Cemetery, it is largely untraveled by tourists, but is said to provide some awesome vistas. You  can view the Lamorisse film via these links:

Red Balloon,  original, grainy version and soundtrack

Red Balloon  superior, restored version, but lousy music 



Another series of books that take place in Paris was inspired by a real-life event in 2010 when a Paris apartment was discovered after being abruptly abandoned by its owner for 70 years. At least four different authors have used this scenario to create works of fiction, each unique in its cast of characters and plot, while using the real story as background. I've read most of these books, some better than others: the first two capture more of the facts behind the real story, but all of them are entertaining. For an account of the true story behind the books, use this link:
Lavish Paris apartment untouched for 70 years

The books:
The Velvet Hours - Alyson Richman
The Paris Apartment - Michelle Gable
The Paris Secret - Karen Swan
Paris Time Capsule; From a Paris Balcony - Ella Carey

I could go on and on about the treasure trove of books about Paris, but instead, I encourage your own research on the topic. Here's hoping the titles I've provided in this post will get you started on that journey. Enjoy!

Book list, about artists:
Claude and Camille - Stephanie Cowell (Monet)
Mad Enchantment - Ross King (Monet)
Girl in the Afternoon - Serena Burdick  (Manet)
Paris Red - Maureen Gibbon (Manet and his muse)
Impressionist Quartet - Jeffrey Myers (Manet, Morisot, Degas, Cassat)
The Painted Girls - Cathy Marie Buchanan (Degas models)
Luncheon of the Boating Party - Susan Vreeland  (Renoir)
Naked Came I - David Weiss (Rodin)
You Must Change Your Life - Rachel Corbett (Rilke and Rodin)

Life in Saint Germaine, Paris, France

Family fun with Andrea, Tommy and Monica

Though I spent nearly every day touring Paris, each evening I returned to the Ruggeri household in Saint Germaine-en-Laye. With three children, aged 7, 12 and 14, there was always something going on. Homework was done at the dining room table, and lessons were done in both French and Italian. The older girls, Virginia and Camilla, go to Lycée International de Saint-Germain-en-Laye ("International high school of Saint-Germain-en-Laye"), along with about 400 other Italian children. French children do not attend the school, but there are students from many European countries, as well as other countries around the world. Children have language and history classes in their native language, but all other classes are taught in French. The school provides a rich multi-cultural experience, and for Europeans, the school is free. 

Andrea and Virginia discussing her homework

Every evening when I got back to the Ruggeri home, the children were busy doing homework around the dining room table. Virginia and Camilla speak Italian, English and French, and are now starting to learn Spanish. Tommaso, who goes to a French elementary school, speaks Italian and French. He even has a French accent when he speaks Italian. 

Tommy working on English

During my stay, Tommaso and I gave each other a few language lessons: I taught him English, and he taught me French. He was an avid student, and we had fun with it. He was a baby when the family lived in the U.S. for three years, so he didn’t have the advantage of learning English in school as the girls did. However, Italian is the main language used at home, and English was rarely spoken while I was there. Full immersion for me!

Market day in Saint Germaine-en-Laye

I spent one Sunday at home with the family, and in the morning, I went shopping with Monica and Virginia in the town center, where a large market takes place in the main piazza. When we got back to the house, Andrea was grilling meats in the back yard for a sumptuous pranzo, or lunch.

Dinnertime with the Ruggeris

During the afternoon, I stayed home with the kids while Monica and Andrea went to a large antique market, hoping to find a dining room table for their new house. 

More family fun!

When they came back, Andrea had a new treasure, a collection of 3D slides with scenes from the early 1900’s. The device was similar to a stereoscope (which later evolved into the Viewmaster), but its images were mounted on glass rather than cards. It was fun passing around the viewer and making up stories about what was going on in the scenes. I enjoyed being included in the family activities, and always felt welcome and appreciated by everyone.

Monica and Camilla

I’m truly grateful for the warm hospitality I received at the Ruggeri home. Staying with them allowed me to not only experience Paris at length, but to also share their new life in France and enjoy the company of their warm Italian family.

Paris, Day 5: The Louvre, Islamic Art and a night in the city.

The Louvre

As I left Saint Germaine for Paris late in the morning for the hotel, it was cloudy and cool. As usual, Monica drove me to the Metro and we bid a fond farewell. I arrived at my hotel in the Marais area of Paris about noon, was able to check in and stash my luggage, and headed back out for the Louvre. I wanted to get there in time to sign up for a 90-minute guided tour in English that would cover the Masterpieces of the Louvre, which are spread out in several areas of the expansive museum. 

Metro entertainment of a different kind

On the Metro that morning, instead of an accordion player, commuters were entertained by a quartet of rap musicians on one line, and a brass duo on another. I enjoyed the novelty, but most Parisians seem to take little interest.                                                                   

Venus di Milo

On the short guided tour, we learned about the history of the museum and its beginnings as a fortress to protect Paris against Viking raids in the 1200’s. We then made the rounds to see, among other items, Venus di Milo, Winged Victory, and of course, the Mona Lisa. Women seemed to be featured in many of the world's masterpieces.

Winged Victory

Da Vinci's most famous work is a small painting, under glass, and the room is continually swamped with visitors. It's impossible to get close to it.

Mona Lisa, by Leonardo da Vinci

In a nearby room there are other, less famous paintings by Leonardo da Vinci, but few people were paying attention to them. One of them had recently been restored and returned to public view in March of this year. Surprisingly, taking photos without a flash is allowed in the Louvre, whereas taking photos in most of the other art museums I went to in Paris was strictly forbidden.

The Virgin and Child with Saint Anne,  by Leonardo da Vinci

An article about the painting's controversial restoration can be viewed here:

Louvre uncovers restoration of Leonardo da Vinci's last work

There were several sculptures by Michelangelo on display at the Louvre.

Dying Slave, Michelangelo, Louvre

Once the tour was over, I headed down to the new exhibit, Islamic Art, which just opened a few weeks ago. This is where I spent most of the afternoon. Instead of paintings, there were ceramics, tiles, carved wooden doors, and woven rugs: a wonderland of art that has rarely been seen in the Western world.

Islamic Art, painted tiles

Islamic Art, ceramics

Next, I headed back to the exhibit of Italian paintings, which are featured in a long hall of the Denon wing of the museum, where I spent most of my time. By late afternoon, I was weary from walking and viewing, but I still wanted to see the work of Vermeer and other northern European painters. They were located in another wing, up three flights of escalators, and when I arrived, it was practically empty. I wandered around, but didn’t find what I was looking for, and realized that I was too worn out to look any further.

The Marais on a rainy day

I headed back to the hotel, and after a short rest, went out to check out the Marais neighborhood where I was staying, a working class area of Paris. Oddly enough, I found an Italian restaurant down the street and decided to have dinner there. It was dark, cold and rainy, and I was tired: something familiar felt comforting. I ordered spaghetti al pesto and a glass of red wine from Montepulciano. The pasta was fine, but much too plentiful, and I ate less than half of it, to the dismay of the waitress.

Gare de Lyon

The hotel was fine, a bit pricey for me, but cheap for Paris. Its main asset was being near Gare de Lyon, the train station where I’d catch my train to Torino in the morning. All in all, my time in Paris was well spent. I saw everything that I’d hoped to see, and had a wonderful stay with my friends as well.

Paris, Day 4: Arc de Triomphe, Champs-Élysées, Musée Jacquemart-André, Batoboat

Arc de Triomphe

I got a late start into Paris on the fourth full day, with a long list of things I still wanted to do and see. Rain was forecast, but even though it was cloudy in the morning, it never rained. I took the Metro to the Arc de Triomphe, which turned out to be a very impressive sight.

Le Marseillaise

The Arc stands at the west end of the Champs-Élysées, in the midst of a hectic roundabout of never-ending traffic, and visitors reach it by means of underground passageways. The Arc de Triomphe honors those who fought and died for France in the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars, and the names of all French victories and generals are inscribed on its inner and outer surfaces. Beneath the vault lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier from World War I. There are four sculptures at the base of the arch, and the most famous, Le Marseillaise, is an allegorical representation of France calling her people to arms.

Champs-Élysées

Next, I walked down the Champs-Élysées, which was another kind of thrill. The Champs-Élysées is perhaps the most famous street in the world. The name is French for Elysian Fields, and the street was once fields and gardens. The avenue is often called the most beautiful street in the world. But I have to admit, seeing these landmarks in person was nothing like I had imagined. In my imagination, they were so "magical" as to be unreal. But seeing them in person, you realize, well, okay, it's real, not magic at all. I don't mean to say that it's disappointing: in fact, it's quite the opposite. It simply gives me perspective, and these icons thus become more acceptable as a normal part of life. Not magic, or unreachable: they are now quite real to me.

Museé Jacquemart -André

My next goal for the day was to locate another art museum, the Musée Jacquemart-André, which I had not heard of before going to Paris. One day in the Metro, I noticed a banner describing an exhibit of two Venetian artists, Canaletto and Guardi, starting that week at the Musée Jacquemart-André. Looking for the museum took me to another part of Paris that I would not have otherwise seen.

The Grand Canal and the Church of the Salute, by Canaletto (1730)

I'm a big fan of both artists and their paintings depicting life in Venice during the 1700's. Canoletto was first on the scene, and inspired Gaudi's style. I was fortunate to happen upon this exhibit during my stay in Paris.

Piazza San Marco in Venice, by Francesco Guardi (1760-1770)

I really enjoyed walking around different areas of Paris this day, which included Avenue Montaigne, where many fashion houses seem to have their headquarters, including Louis Vuitton, Ralph Lauren, Dior, Prada and Chanel.

An upscale apartment or condo building?

My last adventure of the day was to take a boat ride on the Seine. Since the sun didn't set until after 7:30, and I knew Monica would be making dinner by then, I took my boat ride in the afternoon about 4 p.m. I chose the Batoboat, which has eight stops along the Seine and you can get on and off as you like for an entire day, or for 2-3 days, if you want to pay more. I had already been to most of the stops, but wanted to see the view from the Seine. There are other boats, more expensive, that offer lunch or dinner, which would be fun or romantic with someone special to share it with.

Eiffel Tower, from the Seine.

During my journey that afternoon, I spent more time near Notre Dame and Rive Gauche (the Left Bank), and got some great photos from the river of places I'd already visited.

Rive Gauche, with Notre Dame in the background.

When I got back to Monica's, she was preparing a French meal called Moules-frites, or mussels with fries. She prepared the mussels in a bit of milk, with onions, garlic and wine, making a broth. Then she made french-fried potatoes, to dip in the broth. It was incredibly delicious and I ate too much of it! This was my last evening at the Ruggeri household, and Monica made it special. 

Eating moules-frites with Tommaso and Virginia

I still had another day in Paris, but I'd made reservations at a hotel near the train station for my last night, where I would get the TVG train to Torino in the morning of the following day.

Paris, Day 3: Luxembourg and Tuileries Gardens, Left Bank, Musée de l’Orangerie, Eiffel Tower.

Luxembourg Gardens

After resting for a day in St. Germaine, I started off early to visit the Luxembourg Gardens. It was a chilly morning, and I arrived about 9a.m., so there were few people enjoying one of Paris’s favorite places to hang out. The gardens were built by the Medici family when they ruled the city, so there’s a definite Italian influence to the design of the expansive gardens. As part of the overall plan, Marie de Medici ordered the planting of some 2000 elm trees. These gardens turned out to be one of my favorite places in Paris, and I would have liked to have had time to linger there later in the day. (It's no wonder I enjoyed it so much, since it was patterned after the Medici gardens in Florence.) Obviously, I'll need to return to Paris, so I can spend more time in the Luxembourg gardens, as I missed seeing many of its statues and fountains. 

Café Procope

Next, I used information from a Rick Steve’s book to take a walk along the Left Bank. One place of interest is the Café Procope, said to be the first place in Europe where coffee, at one time considered to be an exotic beverage from Morocco, was served. The cafe is now a restaurant, but has been open since 1686, holding the record for the longest time a restaurant has been in continuous operation in Paris. I then headed for the Tuileries Gardens, next to the Louvre. I took a gander at the crowds waiting to get in the Louvre, but passed on, as I decided to save it for my last day in Paris, when rain is forecast.

Tuileries Garden, with the Louvre in the background

The Tuileries is another formal garden area that Parisians often hang out in, but even thought it's expansive, it’s less attractive  than the Luxembourg Gardens. It was originally ordered built by Catherine de Medici, when she was living in the Louvre as a palace, to mirror her gardens in Florence, but over the years it's been through many transformations that have detracted from it's original impressive beauty.

Here I am, bundled up in the Tuileries Gardens.

Besides visiting the garden, I was headed to another art museum that is located in the gardens, Museé de l’Orangerie. The main attraction of this museum is to be able to view Monet’s eight panoramic paintings of his gardens in Giverny. 

Originally built to house orange trees of the Tuileries Gardens during the winter, in 1918 Monet chose the building for the Waterlilies paintings that he intended to donate to the State. In fact, he designed the room where they were to be installed. As one enters the exhibit, there is first a white room, a transition room, where one can leave behind the chaos of the world so as to be freer to focus on the beauty and serenity of nature shown in Monet’s paintings. Monet’s intention was to create a refuge that would restore one’s spirit.

There are four paintings in each room, with walls that curve, so as to offer an experience of submersion, as if one were actually looking at the ponds in Monet’s garden. The paintings show scenes of waterlilies and weeping willow trees at different times of the day. Other than the paintings, all is white, except for the benches provided in the middle of the room, where visitors are invited to linger and gaze to their heart’s content. I spent long moments looking at each painting, and then repeated the cycle. The experience was exquisite, peaceful, restorative, just as Monet intended it to be. This exhibit was the most impressive of the many that I saw in Paris during my stay. 

A view of one of the Waterlily paintings

To take a virtual tour of the Waterlilies series, go to this site and click on the "visite virtuelle". 

 Musée de l'Orangerie

 After Monet, I decided to walk towards the Eiffel Tower, which was much further away than I had anticipated, and took more than an hour to reach. Along the way, I bought some takeaway Chinese food, spring rolls and a fruit salad, instead of having crepes again.  I reached the Eiffel Tower about 2:30 pm, and since it was a sunny day and the lines weren’t very long, I decided to ride the elevator to the top, rather than wait until sunset. I’d heard such horror stories about the long lines, I was pleasantly surprised how quickly I was admitted and on the elevator going up to the third level. What an impressive sight! On the way back down, I stopped at levels two and one, to see Paris from different heights. I have really lucked out having such good weather during my stay in Paris so far!

Eiffel Tower

By then, it was 5 p.m. and I was weary from another long day of walking, so I headed for the metro and St. Germaine. I walked over to the Trocadero Metro stop, enjoying the lovely gardens and fountains on the way.

The Palais de Chaillot and the Gardens of the Trocadéro as seen from the Eiffel Tower.

I have to include a few words of gratitude to my friend Monica, who dropped me off at the Metro and picked me up each day. It was a good 10-minute drive from her house, when she also had to deliver each of her three children to school at different times! In the evening, when I got to Nanterre, a few stops before St. Germaine, I’d send an SMS to Monica, who would then drive to the Metro stop to pick me up. I am so fortunate to have such a considerate friend!

Paris, Day 2: Saint-Chapelle, Notre Dame, Montmartre, Sacre Coeur

Saint-Chapelle

Saturday in Paris was another busy day for me. I took the Metro to Ile de la Cite, an island on the Seine, to visit Saint-Chapelle, noted for its 15 magnificent, wall-to-wall stained glass windows that soar 50 feet to the roof of the church. The windows depict more than a thousand religious scenes, like a pictorial Bible. The church was built in 1248 by Louis IX as a fitting place for what some believe is the Crown of Thorns, which has since been moved to the treasury at Notre Dame.

La Conciergerie

Next I visited La Conciergerie, the famous prison that housed thousands of people until they were put to death during the French Revolution’s Reign of Terror. The most famous inmate was Marie-Antoinette, and they have a replica of her cell, complete with clothed mannequins, to demonstrate her last days in prison before she was beheaded. The building itself is impressive as seen from the Seine. 

Notre Dame

Just around the corner, I found Notre Dame, another imposing building that is built along the edge of Ile de la Cite. There were long lines for free entry to view this landmark of Paris, but they went quickly.

The park behind Notre Dame

After my stroll through the church, I happened upon a lovely park located behind it, where I lunched on a crepe filled with (way too much) chicken and cheese.

Entertainment!

Next, I crossed the bridge to Ile St. Louis, a smaller island that is known for its quaint shops and pricey living. Musicians were stationed on the bridge to entertain the crowds, and the music  added to the festive atmosphere of a sunny Saturday afternoon in Paris. While I was there, I found an Italian gelateria that fashioned my cone to look like a rose.

Amarena cherry and pear gelato

Next, I rode the metro to Montmartre, another sight that I had longed dreamed of visiting. I’d heard of its fame as a bohemian haven for freethinkers, including artists, painters and musicians, and imagined it to be something like the Trastevere quarter in Rome. However, it did not live up to the image I had had in mind. Instead, it was crowded with tourists and souvenir stands, so much so that it was hard to walk down the streets. 

Paintings for sale in Montmartre

However, the majestic white church Sacre Coeur sits at the top of the hill in Montmartre and people flock to this area to see one of the best panoramic views of Paris. It’s also a great place to watch the sunset, and the crowd was getting progressively larger when I left about 6 pm. 

Sacre Couer

The view from Sacre Couer

I headed back to St. Germaine to go out to dinner with the Ruggeri’s and their friend Tonino, an Italian expat living in Paris. First we went to a place called Buffalo Burger Grill. You can imagine my surprise to find an American Western -themed burger joint as a place that suburban Parisian families enjoy dining. But when they had problems in the kitchen and couldn’t feed us, we went to another popular French chain, the Hippopotamus. Here again, burgers and fries were the food of choice. Who knew? As usual, when faced with large slabs of meat, I chose a salad instead.

Look at the prices on this menu: 10,50 euros for a cheeseburger!

By the time we headed home, it was nearly midnight, and I was truly tuckered out, and happy to spend the next day hanging out in St. Germaine.