Pre-Paris: By the Books

For me, travel is all about learning. Language, culture, history, art, literature, music, food....these topics and more all come into play when I make travel plans. Preparing for a trip abroad can start months or even years in advance, as I do research to learn more about my destination so I can make the most of my travels. For an upcoming visit to Paris, my preparations began more than a year ago, reading accounts of the lives of Impressionist artists whose art will be a focus of my stay. Monet, Renoir, Manet, Rodin, Degas, Cassat, Morisot all figured prominently in my research. I whiled away the winter months absorbed in accounts of their lives, through both historical fiction and non-fiction books, some of which I will list at the end of this post. Though I previously visited Paris in 2012, this visit will be devoted to zeroing in on specific areas of the city that I want to explore.

More recently, I've turned to blogs and memoirs written by people who live in Paris for my research, as well as more general fiction, even some chick lit titles, that take place in Paris. One of the most interesting books I've read recently is one by Liam Callanan, previously known for his novel-turned-movie, Cloud Atlas. His new novel, Paris by the Book, is an inventive rendition of the ever popular "American adjusts to life in Paris" saga. In the process of reading the novel I was introduced to several other iconic books and an area of the city, usually forsaken by tourists, that I hope to explore while I'm there.

Rather than go into the plot of Callanan's book (which I wholeheartedly recommend), I'll mention the children's books that are integral to the storyline: the Madeline series by Ludwig Bemelmans, and The Red Balloon, by Albert Lamorisse, which later became an award winning 1956 short film. Though I read the Madeline books as a child, and have vague recollections of The Red Balloon story, revisiting them as a guide to my upcoming travels has been a playful and enlightening approach.

I also learned about the Menilmontant quartier of Paris, which is the setting for the Lamorisse film. Located between Montmartre and the Pere Lachaise Cemetery, it is largely untraveled by tourists, but is said to provide some awesome vistas. You  can view the Lamorisse film via these links:

Red Balloon,  original, grainy version and soundtrack

Red Balloon  superior, restored version, but lousy music 



Another series of books that take place in Paris was inspired by a real-life event in 2010 when a Paris apartment was discovered after being abruptly abandoned by its owner for 70 years. At least four different authors have used this scenario to create works of fiction, each unique in its cast of characters and plot, while using the real story as background. I've read most of these books, some better than others: the first two capture more of the facts behind the real story, but all of them are entertaining. For an account of the true story behind the books, use this link:
Lavish Paris apartment untouched for 70 years

The books:
The Velvet Hours - Alyson Richman
The Paris Apartment - Michelle Gable
The Paris Secret - Karen Swan
Paris Time Capsule; From a Paris Balcony - Ella Carey

I could go on and on about the treasure trove of books about Paris, but instead, I encourage your own research on the topic. Here's hoping the titles I've provided in this post will get you started on that journey. Enjoy!

Book list, about artists:
Claude and Camille - Stephanie Cowell (Monet)
Mad Enchantment - Ross King (Monet)
Girl in the Afternoon - Serena Burdick  (Manet)
Paris Red - Maureen Gibbon (Manet and his muse)
Impressionist Quartet - Jeffrey Myers (Manet, Morisot, Degas, Cassat)
The Painted Girls - Cathy Marie Buchanan (Degas models)
Luncheon of the Boating Party - Susan Vreeland  (Renoir)
Naked Came I - David Weiss (Rodin)
You Must Change Your Life - Rachel Corbett (Rilke and Rodin)

Finding the Treasure

I’ve been reading an unusual and interesting book that Deborah suggested: A Fortune-teller Told Me: Earthbound Travels in the Far East, by Tiziano Terzani. After being told by a fortune-teller in Hong Kong not to fly for a year, the author, a long-time journalist in Asia, decided to heed the warning and spent the year traveling across Asia by many other modes of transportation. The book is an account of that journey. Terzani was born and lived the first 18 years of his life in Florence, but became fascinated with the Orient in his 20's and lived most of his life in various parts of Asia.

In the book, Terzani writes: “Every place is a goldmine. You only have to give yourself time…and soon, the most insignificant place becomes a mirror of the world, a window on life, a theatre of humanity.”

This week, as I’ve settled more into the daily habits of life in Italy, I readily agree with Terzani. For the first few weeks, I was intimidated by many things, but now that I’ve become familiar with the daily chores and activities, the driving, the neighbors and the neighborhood, I’m realizing what a treasure I’ve found.

Terzani also writes at great length about the power of belief, as he visits many cultures that have strong beliefs in magic, and observes that it is one’s beliefs that create, or at least facilitate much of what happens in life. He relates how Christian missionaries, after years living amongst people who use ancient rituals for healing, often find that the beliefs of the people they were once trying to convert make more sense, and have more value, at least in that setting, than their own Christian beliefs.

I have long believed in magic, and for many years have taught others about the power of our thoughts. My journey in Italy has come about by virtue of my beliefs and the use of my mind to create a life that challenges, inspires and fulfills me. Several years ago I began to envision living in Italy near a small village, and here I am. It hardly seems possible, but it’s true. And the more I settle into that reality, the more eager I am to clarify my visions of the future. I’ve fully realized many of the goals that I set a few short years ago. So what’s next? I need to think carefully about what I want to experience, and this is the perfect place to fashion goals for the next five years. Undoubtedly, Italy is in my future, and I will be living in Italy more in the years to come. But the specifics are still vague and unformed. The desire is sufficient to lead me forward.

In the meantime, it is essential to savor my time in Zagarolo, and make the most of this trove of treasure that is currently my home.

A Feast of Reading

Here in Kansas, we've had snow, snow and more snow, along with sub-zero temperatures these past few weeks. I'm starting to go stir-crazy! The situation is not helped by the fact that it's 60 degrees in Florence this week. But I do love the snow, and have had some interesting stories to share with my Italian friends during our weekly chats on Skype.

Lately I've been reading/rereading many memoirs of people who have lived or are living in Italy, and this week stumbled across one that I've enjoyed more than many others. It's called "Keeping the Feast," and is written by Paula Butturini, a foreign correspondent who spent many years in Italy, though she now lives in Paris.

The book is a feast of words, and has wide appeal in its sensitive and rich account of the healing power of food, family and love. I highly recommend it!

Here's a link to her website: paulabutturini

As mentioned in the last post, another book that I savored over many weeks was The Agony and the Ecstasy, by Irving Stone, which relates the story of Michelangelo's life and struggles. I especially enjoyed reading about Michelangelo's life in Florence: his family home was located in the same area where I lived last fall, and I traversed the same streets that were part of his daily routine for many years.

In between reading memoirs and working on my own book, I've also been learning how to master a few Italian recipes, including risotto, crostini neri (fegatini di pollo), and minestrone. I want to be able to cook a complete meal, without shame, for my Italian friends when I return to Italy in May.

In another week, I'll begin my busy work season, which extends from mid-February until the end of June. During that time I usually work long hours, often 7 days a week, at two online jobs, so it's been a lovely reprieve to have 6 weeks off from both jobs for the first time in many years. And the light at the end of the tunnel: the income will fund another 3-month stay in Italy. It will be my first attempt to live there during the summer, so it should be interesting!