Malcesine, Limone, Lago di Garda

 September 28, 2019

After visiting Lucia in Trento, I headed out by bus to the small village of Malcesine, on the eastern coast of Lago di Garda.  I had to change buses in Riva del Garda, and had the chance to walk around for a bit before heading on to Malcesine. Since I'd enjoyed such a wonderful time in Stresa, on Lago Maggiore a month earlier, I was eager to see if I might have a similar experience in Malcesine.

When I arrived at the bus stop, the proprietor of the B&B met me and carried my luggage to the apartment I had booked, in the town center. It turned out to be a huge place, with a complete kitchen, and the bedroom, dining room, living room and bathroom were all quite spacious. Compared to the studio apartment I was staying at in Bologna, it felt like a 4 star accommodation!

 

Malcesine in a popular tourist spot, especially with Germans and Austrians. The streets are filled with boutiques, gelaterias and restaurants that cater to tourists. The main attractions are the Castle, the Funivia (cable car lift) to Mount Baldo, and visiting the village of Limone across the lake via ferry. I found this village to be a lovely spot for a short stay, though it is quite touristy. I spent most of my time in quiet spots near the lake or on Mount Baldo. 

I walked by the castle, but didn't go in, as I'd already visited several other castles during my travels this year in Italy. I scoped out the town, checking out ferry schedules. then stopped to eat ravioli di zucca (pumpkin) with a glass of Prosecco for dinner. Later, after buying food for the apartment,  I found a bench by the lake and settled in to watch the sunset, while swans and ducks frolicked in the water below me.

The next day, I took the funivia to Mount Baldo and watched numerous paragliders, as it's a choice spot for that activity. I hiked around for an hour viewing the lake below, then returned to town when clouds started rolling in, obscuring the view. 

After a quick change of clothes at the apartment, I caught the ferry across the lake to Limone sul Garda, which was crowded with tourists. The town is famous for its Castel del Limonaia, where they grow all kinds of citrus, but especially lemons. 

Approaching Limone on the ferry.

Goethe wrote about his visit there in September of 1786, when the Limonaia was new. After falling into disrepair, in 1995 the local council bought the Limonaia to promote the city's heritage, restoring it with 100 new citrus plants and creating a museum with artifacts and explanations of it history. Though I enjoyed the ferry ride and seeing the limonaia, the town was packed with tourists, making it difficult to maneuver the narrow streets. 

A view from Limone of Lago di Garda.

These photos show the structures built around the plants, which  can be covered to allow the limonaia to be enclosed during the winter months. 

The ferry ride back across the the lake was a highlight of the day, as I always love being on the water. I had dinner with a view of the lake: grilled gamberoni (large shrimp) and vegetables, then watched another lovely sunset over the lake. 

The next day I caught a bus to Verona, then a train back to Bologna and my apartment there. 

Klimt's view of Malcesine

When I got home to the States a month later, I came across a painting by Gustav Klimt, entitled "Malcesine on Lake Garda". Oddly, the original had been destroyed by fire, but copies still exist. The view he painted was nearly the same as the one I saw from the ferry, approaching Malcesine from Limone. It was eerie to realize that I had viewed the same scene he had. I was so taken with the image, I bought a copy of it and can enjoy that view every day in my home.  

Villa Margon and Trento

 September 27, 2019

From Trieste, I took the train to Verona, where a new friend, Filippo, picked me up and drove me to Ravina di Trento, where my dear friend Lucia is the caretaker of the Villa Margon. I've known Lucia for more than a decade and have visited her in several forested locations, but Villa Margon is the most regal of them all.

Villa Margon

Villa Margon is part of the Cantine Ferrari complex, makers of the renowned Ferrari sparkling wines. Visitors come from all over the world, for the wine-tasting, but also to view the frescoed walls of the villa. 

Frescoed walls are also outside the villa. 

Located outside of Trento, Villa Margon is a sixteenth century villa with more than 500 years of history, beginning with the Council of Trent, when the villa welcomed cardinals and other religious figures from all over Europe, including Emperor Charles V. (Charles V was Holy Roman Emperor and Archduke of Austria from 1519 to 1556, King of Spain and Lord of the Netherlands).In fact, his exploits are highlighted in one of the fresco cycles that adorn the villa.

 

A few images from the frescoed walls that fill several rooms in the villa. 

In addition to viewing the Villa, I also spent many hours hiking with Lucia, her husband Luciano and their daughter, Marta. At times we were in the chilly fog at Passo Fittanze, or meandering along the Altopiano and other areas of Trentino where there are numerous hiking trails. Marta and Lucia hunted mushrooms, in particular a variety called sanguinelli (saffron milk cap) mushrooms, which Lucia cooked that evening and made sandwiches for our hike the next day. 

Lucia and Luciano hunting mushrooms.

We visited a natural bridge (Ponte di Vieja) and several nearby villages, where we encountered few people but found a great pizzeria. 

Marta and Luciano walking on Ponte di Vieja

During our hikes, we also viewed the devastation caused by Vaia, a monstrous windstorm that blew through the area in October of 2018. Vaia was the largest single windstorm event in recorded history, and hit some of the most beautiful and most productive forests in Italy.  Scirocco winds up to 200 km/hr caused 8 million cubic meters of downed timber, resulting in 41,000 hectares of destroyed forest. 

Marta and Luciano near the ruined trees.

Stacks of timbers lined the trails, waiting to be transported, many of the timbers rotting after a year of sitting in piles. It was heart wrenching to see, another unfortunate casualty of climate change. 

As always, spending time with Lucia and her family was a lovely treat; she is a wonderful friend and gracious host that I am fortunate to know. 

The main piazza in Trento, where high school students were on strike that day. 

During my visit, I stayed at a hotel in Trento, and before leaving the area, I had a chance to view some of the sights in the historic center. 

Soon,  I was off to my next stop, Malcesine and Lago di Garda!

Trieste

September 24, 2019

Arriving in Trieste, I was immediately struck by the contrast with Grado, as Trieste is a large city, and the train station itself is immense. After a quiet repose in Grado, I was suddenly faced with crowds of people and traffic everywhere. Trieste is located in the region of Friuli Venezia Giulia, in the northeast corner of Italy. After arriving at the train station, I bought a map to locate the B&B I had booked, and determined which bus to take across town. 

A view of the city from above

I was met at the B&B by the owners's boyfriend. It was a spacious flat in a large condominio (apartment building), decorated with old-fashioned furniture, as it had once been the home of the woman's grandfather. My room, however, was quite modern and comfortable, with large windows at one end, and I had access to the living room, kitchen and bathroom. I was the only guest, and the flat was quiet during my stay, except for occasional, very pleasant whistling when the boyfriend was in the flat. 

Part of Piazza Unita d'Italia, cordoned off in preparation for an event.

The architecture in Trieste is magnificent, ornate with decorations and huge in stature. Mostly built by the Austrian Hapsburgs, it's a contrast to the usual architectural styles found in Italy. Trieste is a port city and occupies a thin strip of land between the Adriatic coast and the Slovenian border.

The Civic Theater Museum, which documents the life of theater and music in Trieste from the 18th century to the present day. 

During my stay, I delved into several books at the B&B that detailed Trieste's history during and after WWII. Trieste was part of the Austrian empire from 1382 until 1918, and was annexed by Italy after WWI. Mostly Slovenes living there at the time, which created conflict with Italians, resulting in deportation and cruelty against Slovenes. This in turn led to the rise of  the Fascist government in the 1920s. After WWII, Trieste was ruled by Germany, then Yugoslavia (for 40 days), then a shared control by the Allied Military Government (Zone A) and Yugoslavia (Zone B), from 1947-54. In 1954 Zone A joined Italy and Zone B became part of Yugoslavia, being divided between Slovenia and Croatia. In 1975 a final border was settled, which constitutes the border that still exists today between Italy and Slovenia. 

Neptune statue and fountain in Piazza della Borsa

My first excursion in Trieste was to visit the Cathedral of San Giusto, high on a hill above the old city, which was filled with lovely mosaics. 

It was a steep climb up!

Mosaics decorating the Cathedral

From there, I walked across the city to the famous Piazza Unita d'Italia, which faces the Adriatic Sea. It is the largest seafront square in Europe, nearly 14,500 square meters in size. Unfortunately, entry was blocked off and the area was filled with tents and platforms in preparation for some event.

Next I went to the Grand Canal, a large canal in the heart of the city where you can see a statue of James Joyce on the Ponte Rosso bridge. Joyce lived in Trieste from 1904-20 and wrote his epic novel, Ulysses while there. 

Continuing on my journey, I visited the Serbian Orthodox church to view the incredible mosaics that adorn the interior. The Greek Orthodox Church of San Niccolo dei Grecci was another impressive stop along the way.

Church of San Niccolo dei Grecci 

Other areas of interest in Trieste are Arco Riccardo, a Roman gate from 33. A.D., 

and a Roman theater from the 2nd half of the 1st century.

Arco Riccardo

Roman theater

Piazza della Borsa (Stock Exchange Square) is another impressive sight. The original Palazzo, from 1806, is dwarfed by the newer and larger structure, while a fountain with a statue of Neptune graces the midst of the piazza. This piazza was the economic center of Trieste throughout the 19th century, and is still an important piazza in the city. 

Piazza della Borsa

A favorite spot during my stay was at Piazza Hortis, in the heart of the the historic city center. I bought pastries and hot chocolate at two of the lovely shops along the street, then hung out in the nearby Giardino Hortis.

 

Giardino Hortis

Though my stay in Trieste was only 2 days, I'm glad I made the effort to visit this unique, elegant city, so different from any other I've seen in Italy. I'd love to return for a longer stay. 

Grado

 September 20, 2019

Traveling to Grado was an adventure in itself. It is located on an island and adjacent peninsula of the Adriatic Sea, between Venice and Trieste. Grado is a well-known but inexpensive resort town, frequented by Italians, Germans and Austrians during the summer and early fall. I was there at the end of the season, when the town was on the verge of shutting down. From Bologna, I caught the train north to Mestre, then changed trains to head east, towards Trieste. Once I arrived in Cervignano, the transit station for my destination, I learned there was only one bus that day going to Grado, some 16 km away. Fortunately, the bus arrived ten minutes later, otherwise I'd have had to hire an expensive taxi. 

Once in Grado, I tracked down a map and hopped a city bus that dropped me near my hotel, not far from the beach. I checked in, stashed my luggage, and headed out to the beach. Many of the stabilmenti (beach establishments that rent out lettini (sunning beds) and umbrelloni (large beach umbrellas) were already closed or in the process of closing. As a result, there was plenty of free beach available. 

Marina Terme was also near the hotel, with indoor thermal pools to swim or relax in, but I was more interested in staying outdoors by the sea. Walking along the beach for more than a mile, I found my way to the old town center and had a wonderful lunch of grilled calamari and vegetables. Most of the tourists that week were Austrian or German (and their dogs). The waitress assumed I was one of them, handing me the German menu, until I requested one in Italian. Later, I noticed several inviting bike paths, and when I returned to the hotel was pleased to learn that I could borrow a bike from the proprietor during my stay for free.

The next morning I woke up to the sound of music in the street below my hotel room, and looked out the balcony to find the weekly mercato (street market) taking place, with dozens of white tents where vendors were selling a variety of goods, from fresh fruits and vegetables, breads and cheeses, to leather goods, jewelry and sweaters. After perusing the market and buying some food for lunch, I wandered away from the old town center to find stores where the Gradesi shop. In particular, I located a coffee bar where the locals tend to congregate, featuring great coffee and pastries, which became my "go to" hangout for the rest of my stay. Later, I went to the beach, walked around in the too-cold-to-swim sea, then napped a bit while lying on the sand until a noisy bilingual family woke me with their boisterous chatter. 

One of the highlights of visiting Grado's town center was happening upon a choral group from Rovereto who had traveled to Grado that weekend to visit its churches, and spontaneously sang a hymn within the empty shell of the Basilica Santa Maria delle Grazie.

The deconsecrated church stands in the shadow of the main cathedral in Grado, the Basilica of Sant'Eufemia. Both churches had interesting mosaic floors and histories dating back to the 4th and 5th centuries. 

In the following days, the loaned bike became my trusty companion as I explored the lagoon and forested outskirts of Grado, rode along the beach, and viewed kite surfers while bagnini (lifeguards) continued to free the beaches from the usual display of beach furniture.

My final days in Grado were marked by rain, while the town emptied of tourists and more businesses closed down for the season. I was ready to move to my next destination, Trieste.